An early start: we were on the buses and away by 7.30 am. I chose the trip to Punta Tombo penguin rookery, some 200 km south of the port. A lovely sunny day, warm, and so first time able to go out just in shirt and trousers (no jacket or sweater needed). National Highway 3 is a narrow strip of bitumen, but a comfortable ride. Once out of the city we climbed up onto the Patagonian Steppe. Flat scrubland, that reminded me very much of the Nullabor Plain. Australian Merino sheep are farmed here. Also we spotted local wild deer (I forget their Spanish name) that have been domesticated in places to become llamas. The area is very dry, and subject to much wind erosion. Westerlies blow all year round.
Toilet stop and hour out at a small service station which was dodging great trade. The half an hour on our two buses (we were in convoy) came upon an accident that had just happened. Small car took bend too fast, ran off the road into a ditch and rolled. We were first on scene. First aid kit deployed, a nurse on second bus helped, and the drivers and tour guides helped with the injured and smothered leaking fuel with dirt. Apparently a young boy was in the car unrestrained and he had multiple broken limbs and was in a bad way. We had to wait 40 minutes for the police and ambulance to arrive before we headed off again. The last 30 km into the rookery is gravel road.
This rookery is the largest Magellanic penguin rookery in the world outside of Antactica. (By the way, I had wanted to see King or Emperor penguins, but at Punta Arenas the tours were cancelled because the migration had completed.) It is a protected area of some 200 hectares. Barren land covered with some shrubbery that stretches from the water about 1 km inland.
The male penguins arrive in September and search out their burrow from the previous year, or make a new one. These are simply holes dug into the earth, preferably sheltered by a piece of scrub. If not, they have to dig deeper for protection from weather and predators. The males re-line their nest, then wait for the females to arrive in October. Apparently there is a mating reunion dance, then two eggs are laid. The penguins are monogamous: they maintain the same partner for up to 25 years. They take it in turn to sit on the eggs while the mate goes fishing for 4 to 5 days. They return swollen with food which they regurgitate to partner and later to the chicks. These hatch after 40 days. They grow quickly, and are ready to migrate in late March. The adults moult at the time then take to the sea for warmer climes. Once the family hits the water it ceases to be a family. Male and female parent go their own way until next breeding season. The chicks are completely independent until maturity at age 5, just going with the mob. Then they establish a burrow and a relationship for rest of their life.
The place is well set up for visitors with a gravel and boardwalk path across the breeding ground and to the ocean where you can watch them heading off to Brazil for the winter! Some characters among them too. They have right of way on path, so one will waddle across the path, stopping all human traffic. Then just stands in the middle for a bit, and turns around and heads back (with a grin on his face??). It was an enjoyable and informative visit.
The trip back took nearly 3 hours. As we neared Puerto Madryn we ran into a sand storm that had shrouded the city in dust. Visibility about 200 metres, so slow going, and a fierce wind rocking the bus. We were 45 minutes late back to the ship, but had to wait on the bus for nearly half an hour longer. The wind was rocking the ship so much that the gangway was unsafe. Eventually we got back on board in groups of five, and the ship sailed 90 minutes late.
After dinner tonight I sat in the Atrium Bar and listened to my favourite ladies (the Amber Strings) playing 45 minutes of classical pieces. (They earn their keep, doing 6 sessions a day.). At 9.30 I ended the day at the Stardust Theatre to see the Showtime "Pampas Diablos Gaucho" from Buenos Aires. Two men, two women who did marvellous dance and drum and rope routines using only gaucho equipment: drums, bolas and ponchos. Easily the most professional of the big shows I have seen this trip.
Again I have just selected a few of the many photos I took today. See them Here.
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