Verona is only 40 minutes by fast train from Padova, so I reached this ancient crossroads city mid-morning. Happily my hotel room was available, so I quickly settled in and then set out to explore. The hotel is just outside the ancient city walls, so I passed through the Gate of the Grand Guard Palace into the Piazza Bra.
What a wonderful experience. The weather station described today as "23ºC e sereno". The Piazza is a large open area, lined with sidewalk cafes on one side and the ancient Roman Arena on the other. Grass areas and fountain .. and thousands of people out walking. Being Saturday allowed families to get out together, I guess. We just don't have wonderful spaces like this in our cities. The crowd escaping Lang Park after a footy game is no match for it. South Bank is all compartmentalised. Maybe our Australian temperament doesn't enjoy just strolling and being part of the mob, window shopping, sipping coffee. Ah well, I certainly lapped it up.
The Arena was built in the year tradition assigns to Jesus' death. It could hold 30,000 spectators and was used for gladiatorial games, parades etc. Is much better preserved than the Coliseum. Now it is home to a famous opera season each summer. Tonight Elisa is performing: she is a big-time Italian recording star. They were setting up the stage when I flashed my €15 Verona Card and went inside to have a look. I suspect I'll get to hear some of it from my hotel room.
From the Piazza Bra to the Piazza Erbe. Through the Porta Borsari and the old customs collection area to another open area thronging with crowds. Market day, so stalls set up selling every imaginable item of interest to householder or tourist. A short distance away I was carried along with the crowds to .... the Casa Giulietta. This must be one of the greatest tourist beat-ups anywhere; but into the courtyard you go, and there is the reputed balcony. Because of crowds I missed rubbing her statue's breast -- a guarantee of never being inflicted with unrequited love! What I did learn is that Shakespeare was not original in his telling of the story. He apparently used as his source a novella by Matteo Bandello written in 1554, preserving the locale and names of the famous warring families.
The first church on my way was SS Apostoli .. mercifully closed on Sabbato from noon. But the largest church in Verona, S Anastasia, was wide open and ready to swipe my Verona card in lieu of admission fee. Lots of world class art etc here: really more an art gallery than a church. The enormous red illars that hold up the soaring roof are quite a sight. The River Adige is behind the church, and a pleasant stroll along it to the oldest bridge Ponte Pietra, half of which is still original Roman structure. The Duomo came next; by now my Verona Card had paid for itself with admission fees! Another large mix of baroque and romanesque. Earlier church on site had been destroyed by earthquake, so new one was built a little to the side recycling much of the material. However, they now have an interesting archeological display attached to Duomo where you can see paving of older church etc..
Back to Piazza Bra, and I had completed Rick Steve's cirumnavigation of old Verona in 4 hours .. and my feet refused to go any further. So I hopped on the HOHO bus and did a circuit listening to the interesting commentary. Will do the Blue Line circuit outside old Verona tomorrow.
A little later: Went down to the Piazza for dinner .. one of the outdoor eateries Mama Mia since 1939!.. The waitress tried to tempt me with Veronese specialties: gnocch stuffed with horsemeat, and horsemeat stew. I settled for vegetable soup and grilled chicken with a 1 litre stein of beer. Food not cheap here. Lunch yesterday: coperto €2 ($2.90); sandwich €5 ($7.25); coke zero €4 ($5.80). So $16 for a snack lunch. Crowds were streaming into the Arena for concert; lots of noise when Verona won its football match (TV Screens everywhere); and scalpers obviously desparate to offload their tickets as start time drew near: 2 even tried to sell to me -- how desparate! Great atmosphere. Except that they can smoke at outdoor tables, which the wowmen in particular seem to do.
Sunday.
Am getting used to making do with the continental breakfast all the hotels seem to offer. At least I managed some cornflakes today, in addition to usual croissant and coffee. Mass at little church of St Luke, after which this hotel is named. The priest was 90 not out, and preached for almost 30 minutes -- wasted on me as I understood nothing of what he was saying.
Nice sunny day again, and no places on itinerary that banned shorts, so was able to dress a little more comfortably in shorts. Started out with the HOHO bus, taking the Blue line today which goes out into the suburbs across the river. At the Castel S.Pietro, a fortress ona hill overlooking the river, we stopped for a short photo opportunity. A wonderful outlook, although the day was a little hazy. I hopped off at the second last stop, Castelvecchio. It was built in 14th century by the della Scala family when they ruled Verona against the Venetians and other powerful families, with its own bridge across the river Adige to allow escape in case of rebellion. Today it is part of the city museums.
Further along the river and then in, is the Basilica of San Zeno. He was a north African (black) bishop who brought christianity to these parts: martyred 380. A benedictine monastery began on the current site in 9th C; original church destroyed by earthquake and present one built 14th C. The monastery is still functioning next door. Walls were all done in fresco. Patches still survive and are being curated by modern methods. Place is unusual in that halfway down the nave you have to choose to climb up into the high altar area, or go down into the crypt where the tomb of St Zeno is on display. It was down there that Shakepeare has Romeo and Juliet tie the knot. A few years ago they did a CSI forensic on Zeno's bones, got info re DNA and so forth and have been able to model his appearance (like with the Ice Man in Bolzano). They then laid him out, dressed him up in new bishop's robes and displayed him in a new glass case. Their way of going one up on the Cathedral, I think.
The walk back to hotel was instructive: halfway across the old town. Through alleys and along vias, it took 45 minutes with a stop for sandwich and coffee. Time to put the feet up for a half hour`
A selection of photos are here.
1 comment:
Certainly looks a very beautiful place. Did you find a laundramat?
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