Day 6: PADOVA

Took the Regionale from Ravenna to Ferrara, and connected with the Frecciargento from Rome to Venice for the leg into Padova.  Hotel is right opposite the station and very comfortable.  The tram stops right nearby also.  I had purchased a 48 hr Padova Card which allows free public transport, as well as admission to various museums etc..  It has been a boon.

The trams here are unusual.  They run on rubber-tyre wheels like a bus, but have a single rail that steers them.  Also in tight spots where they can't manage overhead power, the tram runs on bettery till it connects a bit later on with its overhead wires.  There is only one line that runs north-south; it passes near all the major places of interest to the tourist, so makes getting around easy.  One every 8 minutes.

First attraction was to see the Scrovegni Chapel.  One gets a strict 15 minutes inside.  It was painted floor to ceiling by Giotto.  Scenes from the life of Anna and Joachim, Mary, and Jesus are portrayed in frescos of wonderful detail and colour.  Smaller paintings portray the virtues and vices.  The end wall is a scene of the Last Judgment, a la Dante.   The chapel was built by the son of a rich banker in an attempt to save his father's soul because he had been a notorious usurer.  Dante had placed him in deepest hell!

Neighboring the chapel in the old Chiesa Eremitani is a section of the Padova Museum of Art.  They were running an exhibition of Veronese's art, in addition to their own suptuous collection. Poor Veronese ended up in trouble with the Inquistion because he was a little to free in his presentation of the Last Supper. (He had added a black serving boy.)

Back to the tram, and down to see the Vasilica of St Anthony of Padua.  Reminded me of Westminster Abbey.  Everyone who was anybody seems to have managed to get a memorial plaque or wall carving extolling their piety and goodness on one of the walls or columns.  I said a prayer at the saint's tomb to thank him for the many times he has found things for me.  The chapel of relics is as revolting as these places usually are.  They display his incorrupt tongue andin another gorgeous reliquary his jaw bone complete with teeth.  He needed to see a good dentist.  The surrounding cloisters and courtyards are very restful.

After a freshen up at the hotel, it was off to join the evening promenade around the several interconnecting piazzas.  Outside the University of Padua the students had stalls set up recruiting to various clubs and faculties.  I discovered that all the sidewalk cafes only sell drinks and primi piatti (pizza or pasta).  If you want a proper meal you have to find a ristorante.  Not so easy.  I barged into one that had several Michelin Guide badges on the door and was very promptly exited when I had no reservation!  Eventually I found a nice place Vecchia Padova .. a little expensive  but excellent tucker.  I note that all restaurants here add an item to the conto: coperta e pane £2. That means no tip as far as I am concerned!

I managed a quick look at the Duomo before dinner.  It is very spacious with high cupolas down the nave to provide natural light.  It is reasonably plain inside, which is a relief.

Tonight I am well and truly "arted" out.  Too much of a good thing in toio short a time.  So I am hoping Verona will offer more than churches and
art galleries when I get there tomorrow.

Very few photos tonight, as nearly everywhere I went today banned photography.  What I can offer will be found here.