Days 9 & 10: LAKE COMO

Monday:
Fast train to Milano and Regionale to Verenna had me at Residenz Luigina well before lunch.  Lake Como is shaped like the Mercedes badge:  from the south two branches run north to meet and form a single lake that continues further north.  Como is at the bottom of the western branch, and Lecco at the bottom of the eastern.  Belagio sits in the centre where both branches meet; and Varenna is a little further up on the eastern side of the lake.  The train met the lake at Lecco, and it was a very scenic run up the lakeside to Varenna.  My apartment is on a hillside overlooking the train station and lake: wonderful position, though a bit of  a puff to drag my suitcase up the hill.  Very modern studio with a sofa bed and all mod cons.

I wasted no time in heading down to the ferry port and took the next rapido to Como.  50 minute trip with six stops along the way.  It was a sunny day and 25C, but for some reason very hazy.  Had late lunch on the waterfrornt at Como and then did some wandering to look the place over.  I must say I was quite underwhelmed by Como.  The only notable building I saw (apart from some mansions along the lakeside on the way in) was the inevitable Duomo.  I didn't get to see inside that, as the shorts police were on guard at the door.  The big hotels all look tired and in need of a good spruice up.  Lots of stores closed as per usual siesta.  I walked around the port and took the funicular up to Brunate village, 1600' above Como.  A waste of time and money, as the haze was so bad I could barely see Como -- the lake was a whiteout and photgraphy impossible.

Back to Varenna, and after a freshen up I walked to the centre of town. (The rail station is at one edge).  Plenty of exercise here, very hilly, and in the town lots of narrow alleys with steep steps (called contrade) going down towards the lake.  Had dinner at an outdoor place in the Piazza San Giorgio, opposite the town's lump of a church.  They give the bells a good work out on the hour:  seven for the time, then thirty something for no apparent reason except to make  a lot of noise.

An early night tonight, as I plan to do the triangle of towns in the central lake tomorrow.

Tuesday:
An even hazier day today with the odd spot of drizzle, but still 23C.  Allowed a bit of a sleep in, then down to the ferry area where I first had colazione americana (scrambled eggs, bacon and toast) as a chnage from croissants ham and cheese.  The Italians definitely need Gloria Jeans to teach them how to do coffee.  Even asking for caffe americana only gets you half a small cup.  I haven't found anywhere to get a good long black or even a full cup of anything.  Two sips and cup is empty!

First stop of the day was across the lake at Menaggio.  Its recorded history dates back to about 200BC when the Romans developed the area as a trade route through the alps.  Like most of these places, its history seems to have been a succession of foreign dominations, including Spain and Austria.  It has a long history of being a centre for resistance movements: first against Austria, then in WW2 against the fascists.  In 1945 Mussolini attempted to escape to Switzerland from here, but was captured by partisans just up the road.  It is interesting that most of the "war memorials" one sees in these parts list the names of partisans, and not military.

The Information Office provided me with a neat pamphlet in English that took me on an hour's tour of the town, providing good historical and "look for" information.  The parish chcurch of S.Stefano has its share of paintings and statuary by famous and not-so-famous artists.  Something I have noticed is that Italian artists seem to favour dark and dreary paintings; the crucifixion and the deposition from the cross are favourite subjects:  most churches seem to have at least 2 of each.  And they also favour the swooning Madonnas, Our Lady of Sorrows etc.. And endless martyrdoms.  No joy in christianity as they portray it.  I wonder what it says about the style of gospel preaching here over the centuries, and of local piety.  Quite depressing really.  The walk took me to the upper levels of the town, with much huffing and puffing up the steep cobbled streets, pressing against the walls to let mad motorists squeeze by.  Passed the house signed as the residence of a Jesuit who was martyred in Lisbon in 1761.  At the top are the ruins of the ancient castle -- little more than a few walls left.  Another church up here, S.Carlo.  At least I can understand why this one: was built by a wealthy citizen in 1614 so he and his wife could be buried in a church!  Mind you, I didn't see their tombs when I wandered inside.  The walk downhill was easier, past a chapel to the Madonna di Caravaggio.  I looked inside expecting to see a masterpiece by artist Caravaggio, but only a plaster statue.  Apparently the reference is to an apparition of Mary at Caravaggio near Milan.  Local piety. The walk ended with a troll along the fine promenade that lines the lake, back to the ferry landing.  I was interested that the locals make no apology for their ancestors' bootlegging:  they hiked over the alps into Switzerland and returned with prohibited duty free cigarettes which they sold at a handsome profit, making the west bank much more prosperous that the east!

My next target was the Villa Carlotta.  I thought I had better visit at least one of these great lakeside mansions before I left. They were mostly built in the 18th century.  During WW2, wealthy Milanese families bought many of them and moved here to escape allied bombings.  Upkeep costs mean that most of them are now museums or "national treasures" cared for by government.  I took the Trombetta Express, a bone shaking road trip on one of those touristy trains-on-wheels you see around.  Only a few km trip.  The villa is a 3 storied rectangular buiding set high above the lake.  It is enclosed in several acres of the most marvellously manicured gardens I have ever seen.  The 19th century owners collectd a vast array of paintings, statues and other art works; and the place became part of the itinerary of the Grand Tour, attracting all sorts of eminent personages as visitors.  Today anyone is welcome if they pay the €9 entrance fee!  The first and third floors are divided into tematic rooms; the less grand second floor houses a history of golf in the area.  I sneaked photos of most of the rooms when the wandering securita wasn't in sight.  Ended my visit with a panino classico (toasted ham and cheese sandwich) and diet Pepsi.

A short ferry ride across the lake takes one to Bellagio.  Obtained an historical walking tour leaflet there too, and was soon heading uphill in stops and starts to the old centre of the town.  A couple of grand old villas here have been converted to hotels which look very pricey.  Took the detour out to the little promontory called Punti Spartivento, where the lake branches east and west.  The rhyme goes that Lake Como is shaped like a man:  Colico the head, Lecco and Como the feet, and Ballagio "where the wind breaks" -- polite speak for arsehole!  The town's basilica dates from 11th century and is dedicated to St James.  Is a designated national treasure in Lombard-Romanesque style.  Opposite is the Bar Sport, once a monastery till they ran out of monks.  At the peak of the hill is the Villa Serbollini, owned by the Rockefeller Foundation and used as a conference centre. A bit further along is another chapel with a shrine to Our Lady of the Belt (??).  Nearby too is an Anglican Church that has fallen on hard times and is now private apartments.  Lots of pebbled steps take on back down through a nice park to the water, and a lovely promenade of Oleanders, with a final stroll along the lakeside back to the ferry.  I tried to placate my aching feet with a gelato (twice as expensive here as elsewhere in Italy), but they had had enough by 4pm, so ferry back to Varenna.  One last detour to pick up my laundry at the lavenderia, and I gladly hit the bed for an hour.

Tonight I delved into one of the alleyways down town, and settled for a quiet little Hosteria for tea.  Had my first pizza of the trip (prosciuto e funghi) and an amazing salad side, washed down with a pint of Peroni.  Haven't had reason to try out the pool here, but am amused by the apartment door which is solid steel and like a bank vault.  No one is going to get in, even if they have cracked the codes that open the street gate and then the building's front door -- all of which open automatically with the correct code.  (Needless to say I carried a note in my pocket to make sure I didn't end up locked out through memory lapse.)

All in all, Lake Como has been an interesting experience.  Maybe not quite what the tourist propaganda promises, but a nice variety of places, good boat rides, and charming scenery (even despite the haze).  Just disappointed I didn't get to see the Swiss Alps in the distance.

Today's photographic colelction is here.