Days 4 & 5: RAVENNA

Wednesday:

Half the day spent training it from Bolzano to Ravenna.  Fast train as far as Bologna at 7 am;  the the Regionale to Varenna arriving at lunchtime.  How unreal our world is becoming.  On the trip to Bologna the carriage was full: and 90% had phones to their ears most of the way, conversing at a near-shout, and the men gesticulating  in a very macho manner.  Gone are the days of a quiet read as one travels along!

My hotel is an easy 100 metre stroll from the station, but the area is a bit seedy and run down.  Seems to be heavily populated with Africans.  Can't complain about the kebab I had for lunch next door though.  The hotel itself is clean and comfortable.

Set out to explore after a brief nap.  Did the 'hop on, hop off' bus or sali e scendi as the locals say.  The commentary was worthwhile, but that was all.  The streets are so narrow and hemmed in by buildings that you really can't see the sites they are talking about.  OK for a quick orientation.  I then started on foot.  First stop was the Arian Baptistery, a small circular building that is next to an old Arian church.

You need a good history lesson if you are going to understand the art and architecture of Ravenna.  Originally the sleazy port town for the Roman fleet, it took a step up when for a short time it became the capital of the Empire in the face of barbarian invasions.  The Goths conquered the city and imposed Arian christianity  which is reflected in churches and mosaics of that period.  The Son of God was created by God the Father, and is not his equal in divinity.  Hence the art work emphasises the humanity of Jesus without acknowledging his divinity.  At the Arian Baptistery, the guide amusingly points out how the mosaic of Jesus being baptised by John makes sure you can see his genitals under the water: just another man!  The Arian church of Santo Spirito next door, built by Emperor Theodoric, was closed.  This Byzantine Emperor had kicked out the Goths, but continued to support Arianism.

The remains of Theodoric's Palace, ten minutes walk away, are quite unexciting.  Lots of ancient bricks long since stripped of their marble coverings.  But next door is Theodoric's masterpiece, the Arian Basilica di Sant'Apollinare Nuovo. The mosaics that cover the side walls of the nave in three horizontal strips are quite breathtaking.  This church was later converted to orthodox christianity by Emperor Justinian, so much of the heretical artwork was removed.  Maybe the mosaics that remain were too high for the censors, or more likely just too heavenly to destroy.    An aside:  I noticed several of the visitors staring up at the top mosaics through binoculars.  Turns out they were birdwatching: some 99 species of birds are depicted, apparently very accurately, and 50 or so still can be found around Ravenna.

Looking for somewhere close to dine tonight; my feet are finally feeling the amount of walking I have been doing and need a good rest in preparation for tomorrow's walking tour.

Thursday:
Another nice day - cloudy and mild.  After the hotel's skimpy continental breakfast, I headed for the Hop On, Hop Off bus to take me to see S.Apollinare in Casse which is outside Ravenna on the way to the port.  I later used the bus to get me back to the other side of town to visit the Duomo, and after that it was Shanks's Pony for the rest of the day.  In summary here was my day's itinerary.

Basilica di S. Apollinare in Casse:  He was the first bishop of Ravenna, by tradition sent there by St Peter himself.  In one of the persecutions he led his flock into exile: hence the abundance of sheep in mosaic scenes depicting him.  He was martyred and the church is built over the site of his death.   It dates from early 6th century and is now a UN Heritage site, noted for its Byzantine mosaics.

The Duomo:  Ravenna's Cathedral was first built in the 5th century and dedicated to the Resurrection.  This building was demolished in 18th Century and replaced by the present baroque edifice.  Many fragments of mosaic and scupture from the original church have been preserved and are housed in the diocesan museum.

Neonian Baptistery:  located next to the Duomo with a huge font for toital immersion baptism at its centre.  Magnificent mosaics all around.

Basilica di S.Vitale:  This church was sponsored by a rich banker, and is octagonal in shape (more Byzantine than Roman).  Apparently they aren't sure which Saint Vitalis it is named after - from Milan or Bologna!  Again it is home to magnificent mosaics, including the floor.

Mausoleum of Galla Placidia:  This tiny circular edifice is also home to spectacular mosaics.  She was the daughter of Emperor Theodosius and mother of Emperor Valentian and died 390 AD.  A very powerful women in those days.  Although her sarcophogus is here with that of her husband and son, she was probably actually buried in Rome where she died.

Church of S Maria Maggiore:  A nice little building next to the Basilica of S.Vitale, it is home to the shrine of Our Lady of Tumours.  (Look that one up on Google if you can!)

Piazza del Popolo:  pretty much the city square: a great meeting place with lots of cafes and coffee bars and market stalls.

By 4pm my feet were on strike and so I hobbled back to the hotel to rest up.  I decided to give a couple of other places on my list the miss:  I reckon I have done Ravenna!

This hotel may be ordinary, but it has a quite superb restaurant.  Its primo piatto menu is particularly tasty -- pastas that are a meal in themselves.  Ask for a beer, and you get a litre bottle on the table!

I apologise that the photos are in reverse order to my visits and I can't chnage that on the Ipad:  so I suggest you view the slideshow from the end back!  See it here.