Bolzano lies nestled in a deep and narrow valley with craggy peaks looming over it. Arrival by plane is quite spectacular. At the end of 30 hours travel I was happy to book into my hotel and catch an hour's nap.
But then I decided to change plans, and took the Regionale on a 50 minute very scenic trip along the valley to Trento, home to the (in)famous Council of Trent (16th century). It's a small town with lots of character. Needless to say, the Duomo (Cathedral) dominates, a mish-mash of various additions and styles from its construction in the 14th century. In a grotto beneath you can visit remains of an original baslica dating from 4th century over the graves of 3 local martyrs. Between the station and the Duomo I passed three other sizable and historic churches: one wonders how they manage to keep them all open.
The valley is lush with olive groves and vineyards, watered by the Adige River. Many of the mountain faces are scarred white. They have for centuries been quarried for marble. How they cut away the mountain faces at such heights defies imagination.
Bolzano is capital of the South Tyrol region. It was originally Austrian, but fell to Italy in the aftermath of World War 1. Its roots remain clear as all signage and annoucements are made in both German and Italian -- German first! On the streets German seems to be the main language spoken.
In need of an early night, I once again encountered that maddening European custom of reatuarants not serving before 7 or 8pm. In Bolzano there are many sidewalk cafes, but they only offer a 'piccolo menu' of pasta or pizza before 7pm!
Tuesday:
After a good night's sleep and a satisfying breakfast, I was off to an early start up into the mountains. First leg was by cable car from Bolzano (Bozen) to Oberbozen (1200 metres). This is quite a lengthy ride, and the views back over the city and the valley are spectacular. It was a picture perfect day, sunny and clear. From Oberbozen there is an historic train that twists its way 6 km east to Klobenstein.
A short bus ride then takes one to Pemmern from where a gondola ride lifts one to Schwarzseespitze (2089 metres). It is then a 20 minute walk to Uberhorn. There is a guesthouse there, and from the terrace amazing panoramic views of the Dolomites off to the north and east. Rittner Horn is just another 200 metres higher, but a 40 minute hike up the ski slopes. That was my goal: but sadly shortness of breath and a fierce wind forced me to abandon that plan. Instead I sat on the terrace of the Uberhornhaus and enjoyed a wonderful coffee and the spellbinding views. (I have to confess that I felt a little ashamed as families went past, with 3 or 4 year old kids marching on with their walking poles and dragging their yapping dog behind. They start young in the Alps!) I also noticed that once one climbs above Bolzano, Italian disappears quickly and the region is unashamedly Germanic.
I was back in Bolzano in time for late lunch, then siesta. Just about everything closes until 2.30 or 3pm, so it is sensible to join them. I enjoyed wandering the central streets of Bolzano taking in the street scenes until I ended up at the Archeological Museum, home to Otzi the Ice Man. Three levels of this building are given over to detailed displays about the mummified body found in 1991 in a glacier nearby. Devotees of the CSI series on TV would drool at all the forensic evidence on display here that has determined that Otzi was murdered 5000 years ago after a meal of ibex and bread. The corpse is preserved in a freezer chamber that can be respectfully viewd through a window. All of his clothing, weapons and other artifacts are displayed in individually climate controlled display cases to preserve them for posterity. What sciece has uncovered about the man is astounding. It was a most informative and enjoyable visit.
My last visit was to the local Cathedral or Duomo. It (like the one in Trent) is the product of centuries of reconstruction, demolition, redesign and lastly restoration after damage from allied bombing in World War 2. All the usual collection of shrines, relics and historical artifacts. Heard some really moving organ music while visiting. Tonight I delayed eating so that I could sample a local restaurant, and was not disappointed.
I am surprised to discover how much I have missed Europe: the cobbled narrow streets, with beautifully displayed shops clustered in arcades; the plethora of sidewalk cafes and street markets; the coffee; and above all, the bread. So many tasty varieties all served in a basket at your table (unlike the solitary bread roll dished up at home). Oh, and I do so object to having to ask for "caffe americana" when I want a "long black" !
A selection of photos can be seen in the slideshow here.
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