Prague–16 May

Weather has turned very chilly here: especially feel it when walking up the narrow streets of the Old Town – it becomes a bone-chilling gale.  However, it is sunny and that makes things seem bright and cheery.

First exploration today was the Jewish quarter of the city.  They have a long history of  living and trading in this area, and the Old New Synagogue dates back to the 1300’s.  It was also the most expensive entry fee I have encountered—200 czk (about $10).  Mind you, I am not racist

I then headed up to the Old Town Hall Square (which is sort of the centre of Prague) to check out the places there I had only so far seen from outside.  St Nicholas Church was at one stage a Russian Orthodox church; then Jesuit; then a warehouse during the communist era; now is being used by the Hussite Church.  These are the latter-day followers of Jan Hus, a 14th century Czech priest reformer who was eventually burnt at the stake in Switzerland for his views.  It  is a rather Baroque building inside, and is used for many musical performances.

Across the square is the church of Our Lady before Tyn.  Most unusual in that there are two rows of commercial buildings across the front of the church, which has to be entered through a narrow laneway.  It is one of the oldest buildings in Prague.  It gets its name from the fact that behind it was the Tyn or Chain --  modern day customs storage area; and attached was a hospital where ill seafarers were treated on arrival in port.  It is the most baroque of buildings inside.  Everything is black and gilt gold. Sorry no pics, as is usual with all these places.  But the lavishness of the shrines and  altars and statuary is just mind-boggling.

I was back to join the crowds in the square just before midday.  On the side of the Old Town Hall there is a famous astronomical clock that dates from 1410 and is now the oldest in the world still working.  It tells the date and time and moon phase and astrological data.  Then on the hour two windows open and the twelve apostles appear one by one.  Finally, from the tower top a trumpeter plays the national anthem.  Quiet a performance that gathers huge crowds of tourists.  I then paid my dues and took the
elevator to the top of the tower from where one gets great views of the city.

My next stop was the National Museum.  Since the old museum was closed, it has been relocated to several buildings around the city.  The section I visited had displays featuring famous inventors and inventions from Bohemia; and an interesting display of the development of the cross-bow as a sporting and military weapon.  Nearby is Wenceslas Square, the site of many political and social rallies and protests.

After a brief nap back at the apartment I decided my feet would stand up to another trip into the old city where I wanted to hear a concert in the St Nicholas Church of  Haydn and Mozart on organ and flute.  I arrived at 5.50 for what I thought was a 6pm performance only to find that it was almost over, having started at 5pm.  They tried to sell me tickets to the Vivaldi 4 seasons performance at 8pm, but no way I was hanging around for that.  This city thrives on music.  Just tonight I have seen Vivaldi’s 4 seasons advertised to be performed at 3 different venues by different ensembles.  And Mozart everywhere.

So back to my friendly local pub for dinner:  pork cutlet with egg and potatoes; and as my sugar was very low I felt justified in rounding off with a pancake and fresh fruit and cream!!

Just up the street is a very modern glass building:  The ASKLEPION, Clinic and Institute for Aesthetic Medicine (plastic surgery I presume).  And if that doesn’t work for you, a couple of doors along is another modern structure, the Institute for Fossils.  Nice juxtaposition.

I have been very impressed with the respect for elders shown by younger folk here.  In subway and tram they quickly offer to give up their seats, and at doorways they stand aside.  Met the ticket inspectors in action today.  They are in plain clothes, front up to you and flash a badge with a big red M on it and you have to produce your ticket to have it checked for validity.  500 ckz fine if you are caught out.

Check Trip Adviser:  there are hundreds of horror stories there about travellers’ encounters with local Post Offices.  I managed OK in Italy; today I wondered how I would fare here.  Took a parcel of books to send home to lighten my load.  Stood in queue for 20 minutes or so, then reached the window wondering if it was the right one for parcels.  Anyway, was a painless experience:  the lady took my money and waved me off.  No customs form or any other bureaucratic paperwork to worry about.  Just wait to see now if they ever arrive home!

And a final whinge.  I just cannot bet used to this European custom of bringing dogs into eating places and even having them at table.  I find it revolting.  There were at least 3 pooches at my pub tonight doing the rounds of the place.

Today’s photographic offering is here.