Tuesday, June 5, 2012

Prague–15 May

The Number 22 Tram is almost a complete tour of Prague in itself.  It passes within 5 minute walk of me, so I ventured forth on it this morning – even managed to get a seat and enjoy the views.  It meanders its way through the Old Town and then the New Town, often down narrow alleys, passing many of the sites for which Prague is famous.  I stayed with it until it reached the ridge on which the Castle of Prague is situated.


The Castle claims to be the largest castle complex in the world,and tonight my feet are certainly not arguing with that boast.  I entered through the Royal Gardens, beautifully landscaped acres that stretch along a goodly part of the castle ridge.  There is a summer palace there, built by the Empress Marie Therese of Austria who spent much of here life here and held court as empress. At the other end is a large covered ball game pavilion.  Didn’t find out what was played there, though large enough for a  couple of tennis courts.  Overall the castle isn’t that well signed:  maybe a way to make you hire the audio guide that doubles the price of admission.  As I just wanted to wander, I skipped that this time.

The Cathedral of St Vitus, St Wenceslas and St Adalbert dominates the city skyline and the castle area.  It is huge.  Has been built over many centuries and was only finished in 1929.  Tombs there of many saints, kings and nobility.  They’ve recently been opening many of the old tombs and recovering the grave objects buried with them, and after conservation work these are now on display in the castle museum:  an interesting collection of historical memorabilia.  The stained glass in the Cathedral is quite brilliant in its colours.  The tombs of St Vitus, Good King Wenceslas and St John of Nepomuk are noteworthy.  Countless nobility are tucked away in niches in the walls and under the floor.

It was nice to be in a castle that is “modern” and well cared for.  No narrow steep staircases and crumbling stone walls.  The complex is more like a mini-town than a traditional walled castle.  The museum is excellent in its coverage;  the cafes are too slow with their service;  and the souvenir shops are more discreet that in most other places.  Between the walls of two periods a row of cottages has been built, and these were inhabited by many famous retainers.  Best known probably is the author Franz Kafka who lived in one of them. 

As usual, no photography allowed inside most of the buildings; so my pics are a record of some of the building exteriors.  Was happy to get back home late afternoon and get off my feet.  Visited my friendly local pub again for dinner:  beef and chicken broth, then steamed trout with boiled potatoes and salad.  I asked for a Baileys  to round it off:  much shaking of heads, but they smilingly brought me “egg cognac” instead.  I prefer not to think how it was made:  but it certainly gives Baileys a run for its money!

Here are today’s photographic offerings.

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