A proud, sad town–2 May

Today I got to learn more of the history of Dubrovnik:  both the old walled town, and its newer surrounds.  There have been two pivotal events that have shaped this historic place.  The first was an earthquake that destroyed most of the northern part of the town in 1667.  At the time Dubrovnik was a major maritime and trading town.  Much of the present “old town” dates from reconstruction after the earthquake.  The city was under Venetian and Napoleonic control at various times, but seems to have remained fiercely independent for all that.  After World War 2 it became part of the communist Yugoslavia that Tito stitched together.  When Tito died and Yugoslavia unravelled, Croatia voted to become independent.  This was opposed by the forces of Serbia (mostly orthodox Christian) and Montenegro (Christian and more Muslim), and in 1991 they attempted to forcibly unite Croatia within a Greater Serbia.  Dubrovnik was besieged for several months, water and electricity cut off, and constant shelling of the town.  Today there are still lots of reminders:  shrapnel pock marks in walls; and new roofs all across the town remind that much of the city was burned down.  International pressure eventually led to the withdrawal of the invaders, and mainly Catholic Croatia is today a republic.


Did a walking tour of the town with quite a good guide mid-morning.  This didn’t involve entering any buildings, but gave a good indication of what to go back to later.  Then I did the walk of the city walls – 2 kms of wonderful views, but hundreds more steps along the way!  Was ready for a light lunch in the main street, then up those 66 + 44 steps to have a siesta!

Mid-afternoon I came down from my perch and took the cable car ride to the mountain that overlooks the town.  One can see how easy a job the military had in shelling form up here.  The only saving factor was that the whole area is so mountainous, they were only able to get limited troops and firepower in to do the job.  Took the obligatory pics, then visited the synagogue, which is the second oldest in Europe. There is a Jewish section to the town, set up as far back as the 1300s.  During WWII the local Jews here were forced to wear yellow “star of David” emblems and subjected to much persecution as in Germany etc.  They have an informative museum attached.  This was one of the few entrance fees on my trip that I haven’t had to pay to the Catholic Church which has fleecing tourists down to a fine art!  Then to the Dominican church and its very fine museum of treasures.  Lots of bits of saints bodies again.  At the resurrection, some of these saints are going to have so many hands and arms and even heads, they won’t know what to do with them!

Was  surprised to learn that only 1000 people live within the old town; down from 10,000 prior to the war.  Many didn’t return after evacuating; others got too old to handle all the steps.  So most of the accommodation inside the walls is now for tourists.  I feel for the businesses on the terraces.  All deliveries have to be by handcart.  Went back to Moby Dick’s for dinner:  grilled mushrooms for starters; then grilled fillet of fish with veg and salad; beer and crème caramel, all for less than $30.

After Dubrovnik, I think I will give up clambering over city walls and climbing endless flights of steps.  May the rest of my trip be on nice flat land!

Today’s pictorial contribution is here.