Mine host came to my rescue at Dubrovnik and carried my suitcase from room to his car, then delivered me to bus station in time for the 8 am to Sarajevo. My plan had been to get off the bus at Mostar, look around for a few hours, then take a later bus on to Sarajevo. However the bus company warned me that I couldn’t be guaranteed onward seating from Mostar as they could only ticket right through to Sarajevo. So rather than risk being stranded, I settled for a 20 minute lunch break in Mostar instead.
The route tracks through valleys between still snow-capped mountains: pretty wild country overall. In this part of the world it seems you go nowhere without your ID. We had 2 Croatian passport/ID inspections before we got to the Bosnian border; and also a ticket inspector. Then at the border, another Croat check, after which we were moved into a huge holding yard with trucks and other buses to wait out turn withe Bosnian border police. The journey took 6 1/2 hours; nearly an hour of that was with these ID checks.
Once in Bosnia and Herzegovina, change of emphasis became obvious. Lots of bombed and burned buildings still line the road. Some are abandoned. (Maybe owned by Albanians who were slaughtered or fled). Some are being rebuilt, but apparently the GFC has stalled a lot of construction. Many buildings haven’t had the scarring from bombardment covered over yet. Couldn’t help but notice how many new looking little cemeteries there are; and all with recent grave markers. The toll of the civil was is everywhere to be seen. (Pic is of bombed out apartment block in Mostar)
The nearer we came to Sarajevo, the number of minarets became almost as frequent as church spires had back in Croatia. The evening call to prayer has just sounded near my hotel: done by a live imam for a change instead of loudspeakers. Sarajevo stretches itself along the Miljacka River for several km. I am staying in the old town, but no walls and steps thankfully! Went looking for a Laundromat, but gave up after 40 minutes walking and no help from locals, so have done the necessaries in the washbasin and have them strung around the bathroom. Front desk has recommended a nearby restaurant I will soon try; then see if I can find an English language TV channels to catch some news. Tomorrow will be my “explore Sarajevo” day.
Sorry no pics tonight.
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