Showers eventually gave way to a sunny afternoon – ideal for walking around this ancient site. I puffed my way up to the fortifications by 9.30 to join a walking tour. Very good guide, though a bit slow as you had to listen to his commentary first in French, then in English. He explained the various historical stages of the walled town and its castle, taking us to significant spots that demonstrated the long story of life here. There has been a fortified encampment here since Roman times.
Powerful local families later made it their home, building higher and better walls and a castle within. In the 12th century, the area was home to the Cathars (memo: must do some more research on who they were). The pope ordered the French King to mount a crusade against them, which under Simon de Montfort and the Holy Inquisition wiped the heretics out (or forced them to flee). Carcassonne now became part of the French kingdom. When former residents returned they built a new town across the river (where my hotel is), became very successful weavers and traders, and the fortifications fell into ruin. Only 100 years ago did the French government take some interest in restoring them and making a mint out of tourism as they do today.After the walking tour I was famished and found a little cafe for soup and omelette lunch. That called for a nap back at the hotel. At 3pm I hauled myself back up to the castle to spend a couple of hours doing the interior tour of there and the church. Church was former cathedral, built in 2 conflicting styles: Romanesque nave in 11th century and Gothic chancel and transepts in 13th century. But it works very well. While there, a male quartet stood in chancel and sang a couple of presumably classic pieces. Incredibly, their voices filled the large building as though there was a sound system there; and yet even the softest notes could be heard way back where I was. Astounding acoustics.
As I wandered both the upper and lower towns, I was surprised that I could find no coffee shops. To get a cuppa, you had to enter one of the restaurants all set with linen, cutlery and glassware for 5 courses and 3 wines!!! I didn’t dare sit at such a table and just ask for an espresso! Zaraffas could do good business here.
Tomorrow I am off to Marist territory near Lyons.
Pics from today are here.
2 comments:
Note to self: No coffee shops in Carcasonne. I still see no pictures of you!!!! Make sure you ask some nice tourist to take some. Have a great time in Lyons. Hope the weather improves for you but nothing you can do about that except use your handy connections upstairs!!!! Take care, Deb and John.
OMG all this walking you are doing. Your Toowong to the Goodwill bridge will be nothing when you get home. You'll be strolling from Toowong to Kangaroo Point to visit me..lol...pat
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