Thursday, June 28, 2012

Notre Dame de l’Hermitage–21/22 April

My opinion of French snobbishness has not changed. By contrast with Spain where international visitors are recognised by signage and announcements in 3 languages, here in France it is French only.  Disconcerting on the train when a lengthy rapid-fire announcement is made and one hasn’t a clue what it is all about.  Makes travel just that bit more edgy.  However, I couldn’t fault the friendliness and helpfulness in Carcassonne.


TGV and TER trains brought me via Lyons to Saint Chamond.  Br Neville Solomon (previous principal at Marist Ashgrove) met me and gave me the Cook’s Tour of the Hermitage.  It is a very impressive establishment.  St Marcellin Champagnat founded the Little Brothers of Mary near here in 1817.  He bought this block of land in 1825 to be a novitiate and the home base of his Society’s work.  The original building (which still stands and has been incorporated into the recent re-development of the site) was built with his own hands and those of helpers.  He lived here till his death in 1840, and is buried here.  His office and bedroom are preserved as part of a Marist museum.  The new additions cater for up to 150 guests, with 2 conference centres, chapels etc., as well as a large dining hall.  All within beautifully landscaped grounds, and with the River Gier running through the property.  Very modern in design, and beautifully appointed throughout.  An international community is based here to conduct retreats and Marist animation sessions for groups from all over the world.

On Sunday we did a drive up on to the plateau Pilat (1200m), named after the biblical Pontius Pilate who was exiled to Vienne with King Herod,  and lived out his life here.  The area was completely snow covered after recent falls, and the place was crowded with families come to let their kids have fun sledding and snow fighting.  As we passed  through the various hamlets and villages, we could see people walking to the local mayor’s office to vote in the Presidential election.  No posters, no one handing out how-to-vote cards;  all very tame.

At the village of Marlhes we visited the family home of Marcellin Champagnat.  His bedroom and the kitchen are preserved to be visited:  the rest of the house has been passed into private hands.  A modest chapel has been built next door.  His father was a farmer and local town clerk, even under the Revolution.  The parish church (new since his time) has mementos.  Then we visited La Valla-en-Gier where he started his first school and started the Marist Brothers.  There is still a school there, though now run by the government.  It is very scenic country, all the more so with the snow.  From the plateau you look down into the Gier valley, and it was there Champagnat spotted the place where he wanted to build his permanent base.  Amazing that he walked or occasionally rode horse over all this territory.

At the Hermitage I was again introduced to the traditional buffet continental breakfast:  bread, jams, yoghurt, fruit and coffee (a jug of black and a jug of hot milk on each table).  I wonder when I will ever see bacon and eggs again?

A collection of pics can be seen here.

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