Still dark as I hailed a cab to the station. Had plenty of time to get some breakfast, but all they could offer at their ‘restaurant’ was coffee and pastries. At least coffee is only 1.50€ a cup here. With usual European punctuality the train slid out of Barcelona Sants on the dot. 90 minutes to the border and Figueres Vilafant where I had my first experience of galloping between platforms (no lifts, up and down flights of steps) hauling suitcase and backpack along, then all the pushing and shoving to get aboard the next train and find somewhere to stow the baggage, then find the seat and kick intruder out. I am no match for the seasoned travellers who seem to know the system so well. 90 more minutes and another inter-platform scramble at Narbonne. Finally to Carcassonne where it was cold (13C) and wet. In the distance snow can still be seen on the tops of the Pyrenees.
The town is split in two by the river l’Aude. The walled medieval section is Europe’s oldest fortified town and is UNESCO listed. The ‘new city’ dates only from the 13th century and is much larger, though still walkable. Decided to check out the newer first, so headed off with thoughts of a nice hot lunch in mind. Damn siesta nonsense. I walked and walked and doors shut everywhere. Finally to my rescue came a tiny Golden Arches tucked in a corner. What a delight! Warm inside, free wifi, and the most tasty offering I have every enjoyed at a Maccas -- McBaguette. Quite a meal: warm baguette with 2 meat patties, cheese, lettuce and a mustardy mayonnaise. And to add the their credit, a draught beer instead of the usual Coke.
Thus fortified I continued my exploration. Not such a good idea in wet weather. The “streets” are hardly wider than a car, but they drive past you, splashing you with dirty water from the roadway. No avoiding it. (I see a Laundromat next to the hotel, so maybe tomorrow night I’ll put a load through.) Hard to get photos of anything in the city as you can’t get more than a few feet back from the buildings. Some nice boutique clothing shops along the Rue G Clemenceau. And, oh how difficult it is to walk on past the patisseries and chocolateries that are everywhere: the look and smell is so tempting!
The hotel is typical Ibis – quite small room, but clean, well-equipped, comfortable and well-situated. I hope they all live up to what this one offers.
As the train flashed through villages and small towns, a thought crystallised in my mind that had been lurking since I arrived over here. The lack of colour. Everything is built from the same local stone or brick, and tends to have a fairly uniform dull brown/tan look to it. Almost drab really. Certainly Dulux and Taubmans would do very little business here. Inside, of course, is quite another story – and I am sure they find the highly decorative interiors more than compensate for the dull exterior.
Got a feel for the local cuisine tonight by trying the Prix Fixe menu at a cafe nearby. 3 course meal with wine and coffee all for 20€ .. no complaints here! Tomorrow, weather permitting, I plan to join a walking tour of the medieval town.
Few more pics here.
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