I am staying in a beachside municipality called Miraflores. It is quite an upmarket area, with beaches and lots of boutique shops, as well as many eating places. I took a morning walk down to the ocean, and there discovered a very interesting shopping complex on 4 levels, excavated into the cliffs that rise up from there Pacific. Called the Larco Mar, it would be a magical place for night dining. I then wandered up the main drag, visited the Church of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal, and did a bit of bartering at a cheap clothes outlet for some underwear.
Taxis galore and in all sorts of condition here. No meters; you have to negotiate a price before you go. I watched several people stop 4 or 5 cabs and talk to drivers before they finally chose one and got on board. Not for me: meter please! Also, the main wider streets have dedicated bus lanes, and every couple of hundred meters have a uniformed Traffic Inspector monitoring the bus lane to see that only buses and taxis with passenger use the express lane. Watching, I can see it would February much quicker to get into town on bus than by car. There are hundreds of minibuses they're call "micros" that seem to do local runs up and down main streets, driven a breakneck speed by cowboys. Not sure if they are licensed. They are mostly very gaily painted, and belch diesel smoke everywhere. Also, on most street corners there are men or women in blue jackets: they are the money-changers. They call it the "blue market" and I guess it must be legal because it is all so open. To visit a bank you have to queue outside: the armed security guard just lets enough people in at a time that the tellers can deal with.
After lunch was picked up for the city tour. Group included a Japanese family: mum and dad and two uncontrollable young boys, with grandma and grandpa along. Grandpa in a wheelchair, and emended to be lifted everywhere we went up and down stairs, so progress was often slow. Not as slow as the traffic though. When we reached the historic centre of Lima it was gridlock. First stop was at a park overlooking the ocean which is called the Park of Love -- sculpture and tiled structures there on the theme of love. Then into the city square which we could no enter: it was closed off by armed riot police, preparing for a "peaceful" demonstration. Elections are next month and a move is afoot to oust a lot of the current corrupt pollies. Apparently demos are OK as long as you don't try to occupy the main square which is where the city was founded. Right opposite it on one side is the Cathedral and Archbishop's palace (now a museum and archives), whilst next door on the other side is the Presidential Palace, formerly the residence of the Vice-Royalty of Spain. The Church kept itself very close to the seat of power! In the city square public executions took place, and the Inquisition did its thing there too!
Lima is famous for its historic buildings with elaborate balconies. The Archbishop had a nice set, so did other buildings near the square. And on the street leading to the Franciscan Church, used for processions etc. nearly every building had an elaborate balcony attached from which gives the procession could be viewed and flowers thrown down etc. Lastly we visited the Franciscan Church which over the years has been very richly endowed and is not quite in the spirit of Franciscan poverty! Underneath are its famous catacombs (though all the major churhces have their own catacombs for burial of the monks and patrons. One enters from the Convent next door to the church and goes down to pass pits and alcoves full of bones (mainly tibula and skulls). No photos out of respect for the dead!!! Much is reconstruction, as Lima has suffered 2 major earthquakes in its history: one in the 1746, and the other in 1970. For example, check the photo of the Cathedral: the towers on each side of the entrance facade are much plainer and fresher: the original towers were destroyed in the 1746 quake.
Plenty of statues around of famous people, especially those involved in liberation from Spain in 1825. Also to those who lost life in the Pacific War in which Peru sided with Bolivia against Chile (around 1880). Chile eventually won and seized a slab of southern Peru -- a sore point ever since.
Tour over, it then took an hour in traffic to get back to the hotel. Later I discovered a neat little Peruvian restaurant around the corner called Sangra -- saw it had good reviews on TripAdvisor, so had a very nice meal there of local dishes. Really only got a small taste of Lima, but it has been worthwhile.
Todya's photos are Here.
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