When Magellan passed this way on his circumnavigation of the world in 1520, there were four indigenous tribes in Patagonia, the name he gave to this southern area of the continent. (Patagonia means "big foot", because Magellan met natives who were much taller than Europeans of the day.). There were about 20,000 of them then, but after European settlement they completely died out, lacking immunity to western diseases. The area south of the Magellan Straits he named Tierra del Fuego (Land of the fires) because he spotted the campfires of the natives at night as he sailed past.
I woke late this morning, feeling a little off colour, so decided only to go to shore after lunch and to take a 3 hour city tour. During the morning the Captain called an emergency drill for all staff. It was interesting to follow all the signals and reportings involved, to see the ship's watertight doors all close automatically, and to hear the "abandon ship" signal. I hope I don't hear that again! The roughest part of the journey so far came in the tender ride to shore across a rather choppy bay.
It was a glorious day: sunny with only a few clouds, and 7-10C cold but not too windy. The tour took us to two museums. The first an open air affair, attached to the local university. It introduces to the lifestyle of the pioneers, showing the type of housing they had, farm equipment, vehicles etc. The second was the Salesian Museum. Don Bosco sent missionaries here to work with the indigenous peoples. Over time the priests developed a very fine museum that shows the flora and fauna of Patagonia and much about the native peoples and their lifestyles. Unfortunately no photography allowed inside. It also tells the story of the Salesian Missions. I didn't know that John Paul II visited here : the fur covered throne he used at Mass is on display. Not modern in its style, this museum is nonetheless one of the most informative I have ever visited. Not enough time to do it justice.
We then visited the local cemetery with its beautifully kept avenues of trees and rows of mausoleums. Nudgee Cemetery would be jealous to see the lavish memorials to pioneer families and various organisations. A sort of history lesson in marble. After that to a hill overlooking the town for a photo opportunity, then down to the city square which contains the monument to Ferdinand Magellan. There is a custom there that if you kiss the foot of one of the natives on the monument you will return to Patagonia and be blessed with good luck! Look at the shiny foot in the photo! Reminds me of the foot of St Peters in the Vatican.
Our guide was a local lass in third year law at the university. Her great grandfather came here to farm from Croatia. She gave a very good commentary and was very patient with her passengers. The hazard of this bus trip was not tripping over walking sticks. When she gave us a 10 minute stop for photos, it took 10 minutes just to get everyone off the bus! I notice the ladies bought up big at the gift shops: lots of beautiful llama cashmere goods on sale.
Tonight we are retracing out path through the Magellan Straits south, through the Cocburn Sound into the Pacific, then turn west into the Beagle Channel at dawn to cruise past three glaciers.
Today's photos from around Punta Arenas are Here.
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