Day 10 -- Ushuaia, Argentina

As we left Punta Arenas along the Magellan Straits, we were following in the footsteps of Queen Elizabeth I's favourite pirate, Sir Francis Drake, who sailed this way in 1570.  Daylight saw us further south in the Beagle Channel, a narrow passage between the Isle Grande of Tierra del Fuego and the islands that stretch down to Cape Horn.  It is named after HMS Beagle which visited here twice, the second time with Charles Darwin on board as botanist.  After breakfast we passed by five glaciers, one of which reached right down to the channel.  I doubt that it shows in the photos, but the packed glacial ice is quite blue and easily distinguished from the white snow fields.  I had to stand in the drizzle on the open top deck to get some photos, and gladly retreated to the warmth of my cabin afterwards.

At lunchtime we docked in Ushuaia, "the city at the end of the world" as it is known.  It is the world's southernmost town.  I doubt that there is any more scenic setting in the world for a town:  it has a backdrop of 5000' snow covered peaks, and you could mistake yourself as being in the Rockies or Switzerland here.  As a result of wars and treaties, the Isle Grande of Tierra del Fuego is divided between Chile and Argentina.  Ushuaia is just inside the Arentinian sector.  It was established as a penal colony in the late 1800's and remained such until 1947.  It is today the main port of departure for most shipping to Antarctica.  

I set out to walk the town.  A hazardous undertaking, as the weather plays havoc with the roads and footpaths which are full of potholes and broken slabs.  In the wet there is also the task of avoiding the splashes thrown up by passing vehicles.  Like Puntas Arenas, the locals go for much colour in their buildings to contrast the grey skies.  At one end of the town is the Maritime Museum which is located in the former prison.  This totally depressing building was home to up to 700 prisoners although only designed for 380.  Until its closure in 1947 it still clothed inmates in bright yellow and blue striped uniforms and frequently shackled them hand and foot.  In more recent times most of the prisoners were political and terrorist captives.  Argentina has a dreadful history of oppression.  One cell I saw had housed the Rector of the University of Buenos Aires who had got on the wrong side of the dictatorship.  

They have done an imaginative job, converting the cells into display areas:  one shows the historical development of shipping in the area; another the history of the indigenous people; another is an art gallery and gift shop; and yet another traces the history of Ushuaia.  The first missions here in the 1800s were Anglican.  Later came the Salesians who still staff the parish here.  The natives quickly succumbed to western disease, often transmitted through the second hand clothing the missionaries gave them to cover their nakedness.  None survive today, although through inter-marriage some remnants of the gene pool remain.  One map that interested me on display shows all the known shipwrecks of the area:  over 70 at Cape Horn, and over 40 east of there at Staten Island.  Nearly all sailing vessels.  No wonder sailors feared having to go around the horn.  

Halfway down the main street a makeshift camp has been set up, completely blocking traffic.  It extends for half a block with shacks made out of plastic, tin and cardboard.  Wood stoves for cooking. It reminded me of the Tent Embassy that used to be in Canberra, but much bigger in scale.  Lots of banners and posters but all in Spanish, so I couldn't get a handle on what it was all about.  It did look as though various organisations are involved, including unions.  No sign of police or any attempt to move them, and it looks pretty permanent. 

At the other end of the main street is the Salesian Church, maybe the most colourful outside anywhere.  It was 4pm when I dropped in, and Saturday afternoon baptisms seemed to be in progress.  At least 4 different families were lined up with children all dressed up for the occasion.  I wondered if this is where the bishop or provincial sends troublesome priests to reflect on their ways?  There is a school attached, complete with its own gymnasium. 

Prices here are steep, which I guess is no surprise.  The gift shops never have marked prices:  it is a floating market for them as they try for what they think each customer might be willing to pay.  Coffee can cost up to $8 a cup.

I ventured into the more upmarket of the main dining rooms for dinner tonight.  It should be named "Lilliputt".  Each serve was miniscule, lost in the middle of a large plate!  Very nice, what there was of it though.  Afterwards I went to the Starlight Theatre for a Classical Concert by Amber Strings.  Three young ladies from Kracow who started learning music together at age 7.  Violin, viola and cello.  They appear to be aged late twenties or early thirties.  The pieces were all very familiar to me even though I couldn't put a name to them.  Spoiled a little halfway through when the ship reversed out of dock:  the engine manoeuvres shook the entire theatre for 10 minutes or so.  But a thoroughly enjoyable 45 minutes of music.  Tomorrow night the showband is doing music of Bert Bacharach. 

Catch a little idea of Ushuaia from today's photos Here.