Wednesday, March 30, 2016

Day 12 -- Port Stanley, Falkland Islands

Mid-morning we dropped anchor in the outer harbour at Port Stanley, the only sizeable town in the Falkland Islands.  An overcast but pleasant enough day, 10C and moderate winds.  A long 20 minute tender ride into the port jetty.

This group of islands has had an extremely chequered history.  Never inhabited until European settlement in 1760, they are barren, treeless and windswept, covered with low quilt grasses and peat bogs.  Probably first sighted by Magellan in 1520, a small French colony was established in 1760.  The English pushed them out in 1765, and Spanish forces from Buenos Aires took control in 1790.  After they left there was a period where the only claimants were the whalers and seal hunters based here.  In 1833 the British returned,  Charles Darwin visited in 1834, and shortly afterwards Port Stanley was built as the colony's base.  During the 1960s and 1970s the UK government encouraged closer relations with Argentine to save the costs of supplying all the way from England.  This gave the military junta the excuse in 1982 to invade and reclaim the Falklands as theirs .. The Malvinas.  Margaret Thatcher responded and the Argentinian coup only lasted 74 days.  

Port Stanley is very British in every way.  The Falkland pound is tied to the UK.  They drive on the left and will only speak English. (Our Spanish visitors today had a hard time of it.). They number 2000, so our visit today doubled their population for a few hours.  Only one supermarket, a few pubs, lots of gift shops.  Didn't see anything like a hairdresser or dress shop.  I guess internet buying is the way of things now.  

Took a bumpy mini-bus ride out to Gypsy Cove supposedly to see native wild life.  A solitary penguin on the beach, a few gulls, a couple of geese nesting and a couple of penguins moulting was the reward.  Back in town I walked the waterfront where all the main buildings are located.  The Anglican Cathedral is a nice old church built in 1892 with neatly fitted local stone; inside the walls covered with memorial plaques and military flags as is usual with Anglican churches.  Up the road St Mary's Catholic Church is less imposing and more recent, but homely inside.  There is an impressive memorial "to those who liberated us" naming all who took part in the Falklands war on the winning side!  Unusual to have a memorial to the living, and not just the dead.  Had lunch at the cafe inside the supermarket:  a hand and cheese sandwich with Pepsi Max only cost $US 6 .. Better value than I'd get at Toowong Village!

After dinner tonight I took in the Stardust Theatre's nightly show.  "From Brooklyn to Broadway" featured a well-credentialed tenor Alberto Sanchez who shouted his way through a number of popular songs from Broadway musicals.  Actually he has a great voice and a top stage presence.  I think the problem is with the control room at the back:  they just have the sound system up too loud.  A couple of people near me were covering their ears with their hands at times.  Even in the bars, most of the soloist performers are too loud, especially when you are sitting only a couple of metres away.  Which is why I like the Amber Strings -- no amplification.  I choose the bars they play at.  And, by the way, my morning and afternoon teas are strictly white tea or black coffee -- and no extras.

Tomorrow is at sea, so back to the gym I guess.  Today's photos as usual can be seen Here. 


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