Day 16: 26 April -- Around Hanoi & farewells

Our last day together got off to the usual early start with a good buffet breakfast.  I am going to miss being able to line up and order my eggs scrambled or omeletted while I wait!  Then we bussed it to get in before the big crowds at Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum.

This is set in spacious grounds next to the old French colonial governor-general's complex; nice gardens, a new parliament house being built opposite, and the simple residence where Ho lived are all grouped together.  Entrance to the mausoleum is very regimented.  Have to surrender phones and cameras; then through security; then line up in 2 columns, and on orders march along the white line through the grounds to the staircase leading up into the building.  White uniformed officers watch every step.  Ho's embalmed body lies in a glass case, dressed in simple black.  He was 79 when he died, having been leader of the north for 24 years.  His student politics forced him flee Vietnam under French control; he worked on ships and as a dishwasher, even in the USA at one stage.  He gained communist experience in both Russia and China and returned to Vietnam in 1941 to establish the Viet Minh and lead resistance to the French that ended in their eventual withdrawal to just the south.  He is, of course, revered as the founder of re-united and modern Vietnam, respectfully and affectionately known as Uncle Ho.

I doubt that Pope Francis is copying Ho Chi Minh -- but he similarly refused to live in the grand trappings of the old French government buildings; instead having a simple house on stilts built, similar to poor farmers.  This image endeared him to his followers.  All is now preserved in nicely gardened surroundings.

A wander through old city lanes followed, with a stop to see the remnants of a US B52 bomber that was shot down into Huu Tiep Lake at Christmas 1972-- the plaque nearby recalls the glorious victory of the anti-aircraft gunners involved.  US bombing obliterated most of central Hanoi ... this is about the only evidence of it left, as the entire city has been rebuilt.  The Long Bien Bridge near my hotel was during the war years the only one across the Red River, and was bombed regularly by the US -- only to be quickly repaired and put back into use.  Several of the original spans remain, the rest being of more recent replacement.

Then we visited the notorious Hoa Lo Prison.  Built by the French in stages from 1886, its name means "Hell Hole".  Here the French tortured, interrogated and executed (by guillotine and firing squad) political prisoners (male and female) who were involved in resistance to French rule. After the French left Hanoi, it became an education centre.  But during the Vietnam War it was again used as a prison, especially for captured US pilots who nicknamed it "Hanoi Hilton".  Propaganda has it that they were treated very humanely -- which is doubtful.  Though one of the prisoners from there eventually released did become the first US Ambassador to Vietnam.

Back to a hole-in-the-wall restaurant for our final lunch and farewells.  The first of the group and the guide departed immediately for the airport.  The rest of us leave in stages over the next 24 hours.  We all agreed that we had enjoyed being together, and had been most fortunate in all three guides we had.  The others were already sharing their plans for future travel... I passed on that.

This afternoon I did some wandering on my own... down to see the Cua Bac church which turned out to be closed for renovations.  Then a long walk to a market area to visit a craft cooperative.  From there I took a taxi back to the hotel -- the most hair-raising ride in my life!  There are simply no traffic rules here:  just go!  Dinner tonight at hotel with the remnants of the group.  In thge morning I plan to go to the Cathedral for Mass; I head for the airport after lunch.

Pics of the final day in Hanoi can be seen here.

THE END