Day 14-15: 24-5 April -- Halong Bay

THURSDAY
Today dawned rainy and foggy.. And in Hanoi quite warm and humid. Our bags were out into storage and we took our bus out of town with just an overnight bag each. Will never complain again about Brisbane's peak hour traffic. The crawl in Hanoi is a real test of patience. A lot more cars there too, though the motorcycles still control the traffic. John explains: more cars because there are more (corrupt) government officials in Hanoi who can afford them!

They charge tolls on some of their bumpy roads.. A bit cheeky. Halfway to Halong city we stopped for a coffee break at a huge souvenir emporium. Many of the artists there are disabled people who make a living doing embroidery. Some lovely dresses there too-- silk with beading in traditional Vietnamese style.

Took nearly 5 hours to reach the coast. Ha Long bay is part of the Gulf of Tonkin that borders China. The name means "place where the dragon descends". Ancient myth has it that's fierce dragon fleeing from China lashed the countryside with its tail creating valleys and mountains. It then plunged into the ocean which flooded the valleys and just left the mountain tops above water. There are 2000 Islands in the Gulf of Tonkin and nearly 1000 in Ha Long Bay. A truly awe-inspiring sight. The hazy and cloudy weather adds a sort of mystical atmosphere to them. Ha Long Bay is spoken of as the Jewel of Vietnam .. Justifiably so, even if the jewel wasn't exactly sparkling for us today.

Our  4 star "Junk" is in fact a nicely appointed tourist cruiser with faux junk sails for atmosphere.  Ours was Bhaya Cruises Classic 3 -- 20 cabins on 2 decks, with 3rd deck as restaurant, and a sun deck on top.  The cabins are very nicely appointed, each with individual aircon, shower, toilet and wash area; double bed and tiny balcony.  The ride out from the terminal (where there must be at least 60 tour boats) was quite magical.  Although misty, the majesty of the islands and their variety never ceases to surprise.  We halted in one bay where we transferred into sampans for a ride around a floating fishing village there.  These folk have to buy their drinking water in big blue drums which are delivered by barge.  Their daily catch is returned to the mainland for sale the same way.  We went "ashore" at the community centre where we visited the floating school, shops etc..  The kids have mini canoes that they paddle to and from school in.  On the way back to the boat we came to a natural arch connecting two islands.  The sampan I was in was the only one that actually went undert the arch where the cross currents are pretty "wobbly" .. the oarsman took a pic of Phil and I there, though Phil took a lot of coaxing to look around, terrified we were going to capsize.

The boat then crusied on to another bay where we anchored for the night - in comapny with about 20 other vessels that arirved out of nowhere.  Happy hour and a very nice dinner.  Before that I attended a cooking demonstration on the sundeck by the chief chef -- how to make genuine Viet spring rolls.  Must buy some rice paper when I get home!

FRIDAY
Anzac Day, and our table did a little memorial at breakfast.  The French respectfully joined in.  Sailed on between numerous other islands, and past several large cargo ships waiting to be loaded by barge from the mainland.  Anchored again, this time to visit one of the many limestone caves in the area.  The tender dropped us on the island where we had to negotiate 740 steps up the cave mouth, down into its interior, back up to the entrance and back down to the jetty.  Much huffing and puffing on my part on the first stage -- OK after that.  Actually there caves joined together.  Quite nice to see -- but not  a patch on our own at Margaret River and Narracoota.  Back on the boat we had an early bruncj before checking out of our cabins and enjoying  alast drink as we made our way back to the terminal.

Then the 5 hour drive back to Hanoi.  Lots of road work without any traffic control.  And in the middle of the day the added hazard of school kids riding bikes (most doubling) to and from school.  Over there you enrol in either morning school (7.30am to 12noon) or afternoon school (1pm to 5.30pm) six days a week.  So in the middle of the day hundreds of cyclists mix it with the motorcycles and other traffic on the narrow roads.  I am amazed to see primary school kids riding along the edge of the highway inches from buses and trucks without seemingly a care in the world.  Not a helmet in sight either.  On motorbikes they get to ride pillion behind their parent at about age 5: until then they stand or sit in front of parent and hang onto the handlebars.

Tonight we attended a performance of the Thank Long Water Puppets.  Traditional music and singing provided by an eight piece band.  The puppetry is quiet amazing.  Apparently it was first devised by bored fisherfolk and farmers during the flood seasons.  All the action is on a "sea" -- a large tank of water that forms the stage.  Still haven't worked out how they work the puppets as you can't see any strings ... it is all done from below somehow.  At the end the puppeters wade out into the stage to take a bow -- they obviously work in the water.  Packed theatre, and they do 4 perfomances a night.

Back at out hotel we have had our final dinner together.  The tour ends at lunchtime tomorrow.  I will have free time to do some personal sighseeing in the afternoon and Sunday morning.

A medley of photos from the last 2 days can be found  here .  Many have no caption as they are obviously just random shots of the same area.