Day 12: 22 April -- Hoi An to Hue

Steamy hot day, and we got off to a 7.30am start from Hoi An for the 180km drive to Hue that would take 5 hours.  The national highway is only 2 lane, and carries trucks, buses, tractors, motorcycles -- and hundreds of school kids on bikes.  And it runs right through the centre of villages and local markets too.  So managing to get up to 60kph anywhere along the route is pretty rare.

Our first stop was on the edge of Da Nang at Marble Mountains.  There are 5 hills clustered together made of marble and limestone.  This is quarried and a number of factories there produce beautiful carved statues.  Atop one of them is a famous pagoda, reached by 156 VERY steep steps.  I dies the death of 156 steps getting there.  John patted me on the back when I finally caught up with the rest of them, telling me "not many people your age get up here!"  Should have told me that before we started.  I skipped visiting the pagoda -- sick of taking runners on and off all the time.  Then we visited one of the many limestone caves in these hills.  Here a huge cavern was used by the Viet Cong as a field hospital .. within shouting distance of the US Airbase at Da Nang!  Going back down was less exhausting but needed much care on the steep stairs.  A mandatory 15 minutes was then spent at one of the marble factories where they tried to sell everything from 3 metre Buddha to a beautiful jade chess set.

Heading north out of Da Nang we climbed the mountain range that separates Da Nang province from Hue province.  The remains of a border post can still be seen at the top of the mountain pass.  Then down into Hue province and a rather slow trek into the city.  We were ready for lunch when we arrived.  The usual 7 course meal was waiting for us in a hotel dining room.  Then off on foot.

Hue is the imperial capital of Vietnam from the Nguyen dynasty 1805 - 1945.  It has a population of 340,000 and is bisected by the majestic Perfume River (twice the width of the Brisbane River).  The Royal Palace is modelled on the Forbidden City in Beijing, but on a much smaller scale.  Only the Throne Room and Royal Library have survived the bombings of the war.   The later kings were all puppets installed by the French.  Hue is close to the border between north and south Vietnam, and so was a strategic front-line in French colonial days.  In 1945 the last emperor abdicated, and Hue joined the communist north.  Attempts were made to recapture it for the South.  The Tet offensive led to the Battle of Hue in 1968 in which much of the city was destroyed.  When the communists regained control, all who had collaborated with the South were massacred.

We walked through the palace complex.  One of the pavilions is being restored in all its splendor by foreign investment under UNESCO heritage listing.  The Throne room sports majestic teak pillars and a solid gold throne.  No other royal possessions are on display -- apparently the French stole most of them back to the Louvre!  Our walk then took us to the Mu Pagoda which features lovely bonsai landscaping throughout.  A monk from here in 1963 drove an Austin car that is on display to Saigon where he immolated himself at a busy intersection in protest against the government of President Diem (Catholic) and its persecution of Buddhists.

Down to the river for a pleasant half hour tour boat ride into the central city.  This gave the old lady on board a chance to try and sell us souvenirs of all kinds.  "One dollar" is the catch-cry for most of these vendors.  Then it was off for a rickshaw ride through the heart of the city.  Hair-raising stuff mixing it at busy intersections with all the motorised traffic.  Went through the food market, past a large church (maybe the Cathedral) with large buildings next door labelled "Les Peres Redemptoristes".  Finally to our hotel.

Without exception our hotels have been of excellent quality and service.  Breakfast  buffets far superior to any I have seen at home.  Bathrooms spacious and clean with all the addons -- toothbrush, comb, cotton buds, soap, bath gel, shampoo etc..  The Hotel Mondial here in Hue is no exception.

Tonight we drove out into suburb and down a long narrow lane to a 5 star dining complex.  We were seated in a formal dining hall constructed on the most beautiful timber pillars and carved panelling.  At the ned of the meal a chef cam and demonstrated to us how they carve decorations the various courses out of vegetables.  A rose from turnip, coloured with beet juice. A shrimp from carrot.  Great skill.  Each course is presented, even at ordinary eating places, on a decorated plate or server.

Today's photos can be found here.