Day 10: 20 April -- HCMC to Hoi An

Happy Easter to all!  Strange to be in a place where there is no evidence whatsoever of the Easter weekend.  Just another day here.  Lots of businesses do close on Sundays; but markets, restaurants and tourist oriented places are open 7 days.

Today was a travel day, so not  a lot to report.  We left our hotel at 10am for the airport; group checkin and about 45 minute wait to be bussed out to the plane.  An Airbus A321.  So humid was the day that when we entered the aircraft there was a cloud of vapour pouring out of all the air vents.  Flight to Da Nang was just an hour -- time for the cabin crew to serve us a bottle of water.  Very strict security at Da Nang airport.  Only passengers and drivers of booked cars are allowed into the arrivals area.  To get out one has to have the baggage slip on ticket matched to that on one's bag.  Quite a jumble as people search through their handbags and clothes to try and find where they put the stub.

Da Nang is the largest city in the central area of Vietnam.  During the war it was site of  a huge  US Airbase (which is now being converted into a luxury resort).  It is the Gold Coast of Vietnam.  The city is strung out along about 5km of beautiful wide sandy beach facing the South China Sea.  It abounds in resorts and restaurants.  We lunched at one: The Blue Whale.  Our terrace table opened straight onto the beach, with a wonderful view of fishing boats offshore, and swimmers in the lifeguard area.

Bus 20km south of Da Nang to Hoi An (the Peaceful Place).  It is a smallish town, also with plenty of hotels, and where the tourists well and truly outnumber the locals.  It is famous for its shopping.  And so, like it or not, our first stop was to the 24 hour specials street.  About 1 km long, and both sides crowded with all sorts of stores, but especially those dedicated to making what you want in 24 hours. Our guide walked us to, and introduced us to, 4 stores that he said could be fully relied on for quality, price and servics.  Au Viet Glasses will take a reading from your present glasses and make normal or sunglasses for about a third of Australian prices.  Thang II Shoes, made to measure in 24 hrs.  Water Lily Silver Jewellery do their thing.  And finally 24H clothes shop for tailoring.

My sandals have just about packed it in - one strap hanging by a thread, so I have ordered a new pair in leather with non-slip sole.  She drew each of my feet on paper and measured around and across to get exact fitting for the straps etc..  $AU55.  And I decided to get a pair of slacks tailored.  Wow what a hard sell that place does.  Ended up giving me "good price" for 2 pair and most disappointed that I wouldn't buy linen shirts and sports coat to go with them!!  3,708,000 dong (about $180 AUD).  Measured today, fitted at 4pm tomorrow and delivered at night to hotel.  The women have ordered slacks and tops, and Peter from Perth is getting a new suit for daughter's wedding.

We finally got to the hotel at 6pm.  I am all aches and pains from so much walking, and delayed effects of tunnel crawling etc..  We are at the Hoi An Riverside Resort and Spa.  I have half a villa - spacious and quiet, so looking forward to a good night's sleep.

Only a handful of pics today, and they are here.

OBITER DICTA -- SAI GON
1.  Saigon is the nation's largest city - 10 million.  Hanoi (the capital) has 7 million.
2.  In Vietnam the government owns all the land.  Citizens pay for the use of the land, and personally own everything on it (buildings, crops etc).
3.  All traffic lights display a countdown of how much longer you can go (green) or how  much longer you must wait (red).  Often the coloured countdown is the only signal.  Needless to say, motorcyclists take little notice.
4.  Power lines are a sight to behold.  Anything up to 50 cables (electricity, phone, TVcable) are strung together from poles.  How they sort out what each cable is defies me.
5.  Hotels and airport don't air-condition their common areas.  So lifts and corridors are stifling hot.  The airport waiting areas just have fresh (hot) air blown in -- no cooling.
6.  The coffee they serve here is thick and black.  Hate to think what it is doing to stomach lining.
7.  The first McDonalds in Vietnam has just opened in Siagon.  KFC, Subway and Pizza Hut were in evidence.
8.  When travelling here you need a mix of USD and VND.  It is not true that you can get by with just one or the other.
9.  Many of the traditional looking buildings (chinese temple style) are not in fact pagodas or temples.  Hotels and some other businesses choose the retro style as a marketing tool.
10.  Viet motorcyclists look like ( and act like) terrorists.  They wear masks that cover all the lower part of their face (to minimise pollution absorption), leaving just a slit for their eyes below the helmet.  Mujahadin style!
11.  There is no visible presence of the police or military.  Heard only 1 (ambulance) siren in all time in Saigon.  So different from most other places I have been.
12.  House prices are prohibitive for people earning only $200 a month.  Everywhere one sees narrow little buildings that look like a  slice of bread on its side.  They are typically 4m frontage by 7m depth, and 4 floors.  One room each floor.  Ground floor for cooking and living; upper floors for sleeping.  And have to fit an internal staircase in too.  John our guide says his situation is usual.  House (that size) owned by grandmother who is cared for by her daughter and son-in-law; John and his wife and 2 kids as well.  So 7 people crowded in.