Thursday, March 10, 2016

Day 30 -- Machu Picchu

Today was hard work for both my guide Julius and myself!

Met up at hotel at 8 am after a good breakfast, no walked the brief distance to the bus station, such as it is.  Scored an immediate departure, and the trip to the top took 25 minutes of switchback windings on a gravel road just wide enough for the bus.  The drivers seem to know all the passing points on the way and pull over to let opposing traffic pass.  Had to show passport to get into the ruins, as well as entrance ticket.

Julius quickly learned that he had a handful with me.  After the first dozen steps up the path towards the watchtower that overlooks the entire complex I was doubled over and totally breathless.  He sat me down and coached my breathing, the disappeared and returned with a walking pole.  Off we set again, with a repeat after 8 or 10 steps.  This time he pointed to a rock and said :That has your name on it.  This became his theme as he chose places on the upward journey for me to sit and catch breath.  Meantime he kept up an interesting commentary on the Incas and Machu Picchu.  After 30 minutes we got the to level below the watchtower and agreed far enough up.  After that it was much easier
going as we crossed the complex and worked our way down.  His commentary was excellent.  He has a few very definite views about Inca history that don't agree with the received version of the guidebooks, but he was happy to argue the logic of his conclusions, especially about why the Spanish did not plunder and destroy Machu PIcchu as they did Cusco and other Inca cities.  While I sat and enjoyed views, he also did some of the photography -- so much of what you see in today's collection was taken by him.  Once we had done the circuit of the temples, priests houses, terraces and astronomical observatory his task was complete.  3.5 hours of thoroughly enjoyable guidance, and in fact I doubt I could have made it had I been in a group or on my own.  He left me in a shelter resting and enjoying the panorama.

Eventually I made my way down to the entrance and took a bus back down to Calientes.  There I treated myself to soup and pizza.  For some reason restaurants over here never bring soup or entree first no main later:  they deliver both together which is a bit annoying.  I had left my backpack at the hotel, just taking poncho and water for the trip, so I returned there to collect it and spent an hour reading before time to wander up to the station for the trip back to Ollantaytambo.  The ride down the narrow Sacred Valley is quite spectacular.  Looking out the side windows you just see vegetation and cliffs passing by.  But look up through the vista dome roof of the carriage and you have this incredible sight of 6000m mountains looming above you, the view ever changing.  I am glad I survived the last leg of the trip.  A taxi was sent to take me back to Cusco, an hour's journey up a winding mountain road with lots of traffic and slow trucks that were a challenge to my driver to get past in hair raising bursts of speed.

Pick up in the morning is 5.50 am for flight to Santiago via LIma.  So tonight I will only have time to upload the pictures bu no captions yet.  See them Here.

1 comment:

Pat said...

You're a better man than me Gunga din!......well done....great pics p oxox

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