Off to an early start at 8 am. Showery and chilly day, not the best for outdoor sightseeing. We headed out of Athens and the Via Sacra, the road that connects Athens and Corinth across a narrow isthmus that separates the Adriatic Sea from the Straits of Mycenae. This is the only road; and has been in constant use for 6000 years! What in Paul's time was a 2 day walk now takes little over an hour. Our first stop was to see a canal that was dug across the isthmus in about 80 AD, taking only a few weeks to do. It is an engineering marvel, being so deep a cut in the land, 25 metres wide and 8 metres deep. Still used today to save 130nm around the Peloponnese.
We then bypassed Corinth and went to the ruins of Mycenae. After the first European civilization of the Minoans, based on Crete, was wiped out by the Santorini volcanic reuption, a second civilization emerged at Mycenae. The Acropolis there is the main feature of interest. We first visited the museum that displays many of the art works recovered by the archaeologists, as well as helpful models of what the ancient city looked like. We then trudged up the hill to the Acropolis, entering through the royal Lionesse Gate. The size of the stone blocks used is notable: up to 100 tonnes each. Still a mystery how they moved them from the quarries below up the hill and then hoisted them into place. The central feature of the Acropolis was the temple where the king/priest lived and performed his duties. A name I had heard before, Agamemnon, was assassinated here by his wife and cousin in an incestuous coup. Apparently the discoveries at Mycenae settled a long-running dispute about Homer: was he describing actual places and events in his poems, or simply recording myths. The myth theory was in ascendancy until the ruins recovered at Mycenae and nearby settled the question
in favout of his historicity.
We then visited nearby a well-preserved "bee-hive" tomb of a royal family. This tomb is 15 metries high, dug down into a small hillside, then lined with massive stones in the shape of a beehive. The entire tomb was then covered with earth (including the entrance path) to preserve it from robbers etc. Without success. At some stage grave robbers dropped down from the keystone top and hauled away all the treasures buried there. The tomb dates ffrom about 1200 BC.
After lunch we headed back to Corinth. This was one of the four great cities of antiquity, along with Alexandria, Rome and Ephesus. Population about 700,000. It extends from the sea to the top of the mountain on which is pereched the Acropolis. Only about 5% has been uncovered by archaeologists so far. We took a walk around the site of the ancient amphitheatre, then visited the Agora or town square. Some partially restored buildings here, including temple to Apollo, and the Bema or tribunal, a raised podium where the authorities viewed parades etc. and also meted out rewards and punishments to citizens. Paul was brought before the pro-consul at this very spot. We gave the Acropolis a miss -- have a look at the photos to see why. Need to be a mountian goat to wlak the path to the top of the mountain. In ancient days the temple of Aphrodite was there, serviced by hundreds and male and female slaves who went down into the city and offered themselves free for prostitution as a religious act. That didn't go over well with Paul who lived in Corinth for 18 months. A visit to the inevitable museum followed, whwich houses some beautiful pieces of art, pottery and sculpture recovered from the ruins.
Somewhere along the day we also stopped at a community workshop where a number of local artists do pottery, jewellery, sculpture and the like. Needless to say the salespeople were on hand to offer good discounts as an encouragement to part with many euros. Home at 7pm, dinner, and bed not too far away. My legs need a ygood bathe tonight after so much walking, climbing and standing. We are off at 8 am again tomorrow, so have to pack up tonight ready to move hotel.
Today's photos are here.
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