He arrived in a nice Volvo, and proceeded to take me from one end of the island to the other, with a wealth of information about the history and culture. We started in the south at the pre-historic village of Akrotiri. The excavations here have uncovered layers going back to before 3000BC. The town suffered several major earthquakes over the centuries, each time rebuilding on top of the old and using parts of it. Then when the volcano erupted in 1600BC, up to 30 metres of ash buried this town -- and preserved it something like Pompeii in Italy. The area they are excavating is covered with a huge hangar-like structure that prevents further damage from weather. They have created a wonderful walkway through the part of the town being uncovered, with lots of explanatory signs. Easily the best archaeological site I have seen.
We then moved to the east coast and worked our way up past the beach areas that are now deserted but in summer packed with tourists. Most hotels are locked up until next Easter. Huge areas of the island are involved in wine making. Because the place is so dry, they have a unique was of growing the grapes. They are bunched in a basket shaped from the vine, close to the ground. The leaves protect the grapes, but also gather any moisture from the air overnight. So from a distance the fields look barren and just with clumps of weed: actually vineyards. We visited an 800 year old wine-making establishment. I didn't stop at the door to look at the bottle prices!
Further on we stopped at a small family business where they make everything at home from fetta cheese to sweets to wine to spices. Just a few animals and a small farm where they grow all they need. Anna's Place. Had a tasting there of various products. Eventually we reached the highest point of the island, a really steep mountain of granite, overlooking the airport where there is the Monastery of Prophet Elijah. Nice little chapel where the 6 monks pray the hours. The view is absolutely breathtaking in all directions. While there a new bride and her party arrived to leave her bouquet before the Madonna in the chapel, to ask the monks' prayers, and to have photos taken.
By now it was getting towards sunset, so we drove to the island's northern most town, which is quite separate from the rest by reason of mountain. Oia is a very pretty place, full of blue domed churches. Guide told me why all the churches are
white with blue domes. When the Ottomans ruled Greece, they banned the Greek flag. So in patriotic defiance, the custom arose of painting homes and especially churches, blue and white - the colours of the Greek flag. He also told me about the usual architecture here. Curved walls and domed roofs. This is an active earthquake area, and they still get regular tremors. So they build using light concrete on a steel frame ... has flexibility to handle most tremors without damage. These buildings need to be painted white at least once a year to maintain neatness -- and to remove the stains of Sahara desert winds mixed with rain that splash red everywhere. At Oia we joined the crowds on the old castle ramparts to watch and photograph the sunset .. a major tourist attraction here, and well worth the climb for it. Just the right amount of cloud to create a wonderful canvas of clour.
Home at 7.15, tired and weary. Had some ravioli for tea; will hit the bed after I finish this. Am too tired tonight to process the photos, so they can wait till tomorrow. Clocks go back an hour tonight: end of summer time. Plane at 11.15 am back to Athens tomorrow.
And now I have added the photos -- see them here.
And now I have added the photos -- see them here.
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