Sunday, September 21, 2014

Day 26: PATMOS

"I, John, was on the island that is called Patmos for the word of God and for the testmony of Jesus Christ."  Here John locates where he had the visions that are recorded in the Apocalypse, and the reason for his being away from his home in Ephesus -- namely he was exiled for his preaching there.  This happened under Domitian, and only lasted a short time until Domitian died and John was able to return to Ephesus.  He died there aged 105, according to Orthodox tradition.

We arrived in Patmos harbour early morning.  Another sunny day, another early breakfast.  Then onto the bus for the day's visit.  Patmos is a small island comprising three villages.  Skala is harbourside, and very touristy.  Halfway up the mountain that dominates the island we stop at the cave where St John is reputed to have had his visioins and dictated the book of Revelation.  The cave is enclosed in a  small monastery, with a chapel built aver and around it.  But the cave is still there: the bare rock walls form one side of the chapel.  You are shown the ledge on which John's disciple took his dictation.  And also the niche where John, an old man then, put his hand to steady himself as he knelt for and rose from prayer.  Of course the place is full of icons and lamps, as is typical of Orthodox churches.  They show you the crack in the rock of the cave roof that appeared when God spoke to John: "I am the Alpha and the Omega, the First and the Last.  Write what you see in a book."

Back on the bus, we headed to the top of the mountain and the main village of Chora.  Here is the Town Hall and other businesses.  But dominating the crest of the hill is the Monastery of St John the Evangelist.  It is built in the form of a fortress an dates form 7th century.  It was built this way to provide protection to the monks and villagers at times of pirate attacks.  Certainly you need a touch of mountain goat here to get around the narrow and steep lanes and steps.  The monastic church is full of precious icons.  Outside there are interesting frescos that both tell biblical stories and also the history of the monastery.  Attached to the monastery is its museum that houses very ancient and valuable manuscripts, icons and even an El Greco painting.  There are beautiful crosses and other jewellery, some gifts from people like Catherine the Great of Russia.  Their prize item is the Codex Patmos: one of the oldest extant manuscripts of the bible.

We returned to the ship for a late lunch.  After a nap I went ashore and wandered around the village of Skala, which is definitely tourist dependent.  Ours is one of the last ships of the season; soon most of the hotels and tourist shops will close until next Easter.  We sail at 8 tonight for Rhodes.

No photos allowed in the churches or museum, so I have just a few general scenic shots to offer today.  See them  here.

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