Day 23: AT SEA

The Azamara Quest is a much smaller ship than the previous liner I travelled on:  just 600 passengers and 400 crew.  A very talkative captain who regularly updates us on progress and what's to see (apart from lots of water).  Bed was very comfortable.  Motion is more obvious on this ship; and especially in bed you feel the little jigs as she makes her way.  Woke to a glassy sea outside; never seen Moreton Bay so smooth.  Had breakfast in my room.  They certainly go out of their way to pamper you.

Mid morning we passed by Stromboli, and active volcano that juts up out of the ocean:  lots of steam rising from its peak.  Then at lunch time we entered the straits of Messina, the narrow waterway separating Italy from Sicily.  For the next few hours we tracked along the foot of Italy; being on the port side I had a good view of the shoreline a couple of miles away.  Took lunch at the poolside grill.  Will have to make sure I get in plenty of walking, because the food is excellent and one could pile on the kilos.

As we leave Italy, a few observations I made:

*  Smoking.  Surprised at how many still smoke, and especially the young.  And still allowed at outdoor eating places where every table you sit at will have an ashtray half full of disgusting butts.

* Italians and their dogs.  Mostly little yappy things, and in pairs.  In restaurants and shops.  On the Metro and buses they carry them in a sling like a  baby.

* They are very good natured in the crowded trains and buses.  But no manners as regards offering seats to women or elderly.

* Never saw a coffee shop that offered takeaway.  Everyone seems to drink at a table or at the bar.

* Rome is full of inscriptions crediting popes with just about everyting.  Always written in the superlative: optimo, excellissimo or some other ..mo ; and "ad rei memoriam aeternam" = never to be forgotten.  Well bad news - I doubt many Romans ever think about them.

* Beer much cheaper than Coca Cola.  Could get a stubby for €1.50 at a bar; double that for a coke.  But in restaurants they hit you up: a 40cl glass of beer could be anywhere from €4 to €9.

* Trains run on time.  Only experienced one late departure (from Lucca).

* The number of Africans.  Everywhere. Many refugees no doubt.  They make up the greater portion of the street hawkers and ticket touts everywhere you turn in tourist areas.

* Begging.  A lot more of it than I remember in the past, just about everywhere I went.  Rome by far the worst.

The remainder of the day has been unexciting as we make our way across the Ionian Sea.  Calm cruising.  Dinner at the buffet (serve ourselves tonight) was an Asian theme, and very tasty.  We are due to dock at Katakolon at 8am for a short stay till just after lunch.  I've booked to take the tour to see the site of the ancient Olympic games and the historical museum associated with it.  Wiill be good to have a couple of hours on terra firma again!

Today's exciting photographic offering is here.