Day 7: 17 April -- Inner Saigon

Another hot but not so humid day.  Breakfast at this hotel of equal standard to previous buffets - a good start to the day!

At 8.30am we bussed to the former Presidential Palace.  Rebuilt in 1964 to a local Vietnamese design, it is a very spacious and pleasing building.  Our tour allowed us to see the various public spaces -- Cabinet Room, Presidential Office, reception and state dining rooms etc; and then the private living quarters of the President.  The down into the underground bunker, where we saw the various communication rooms, war offices, and presidential emergency living quarters.

I have had to revise my history of conflicts in this area.

From about 1860 on, the French subjugated Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos into French Indochina, with Saigon as capital.  Much architecture here still dates from the French period, and especially the Catholic Cathedral.  Towards the end of the Pacific War 1945 the Japanese overran Vietnam.  In the north the Chinese and Russian forces replaced the vanquished Japanese and installed Ho Chi Minh as president.  The French re-asserted power in the south, but were opposed by guerilla activity seeking re-unification of Vietnam. From 1954-1960 the Viet Cong, supported by the Viet Minh from the north, created a very unstable situation in the south.  The USA, fearing a domino effect if the south fell to communism, became increasingly involved.  After the Tet offensive of 1967 the war became known as the American War, with massive troop deployments, bombings, agent orange horrors etc.. By 1973 things were going so bad for the US, they agreed to a permanent partition and recognised the government of the north.  But by now the infiltration of the south via the Ho Chi Minh trails through Laos and Cambodia was so complete that the US was forced to abandon the south, and Saigon fell in April 1975.  Vietnam was reunited under a communist government with the capital in Hanoi.

Then...

Pride of place in front of the building is Tank 390, famous as the one the crashed through the front gates in 1975, allowing the Northern Troops to enter and receive the surrender of South Vietnam.

and now

All that as background to our next tour stop:  The American War Remnant Museum.  Here is a fairly comprehensive display of  photographs, posters, weapons and captured US equipment.  The display of the effects of Agent Orange was particularly horrific.  There is also a sample of the notorious 'tiger cages' in which US and South Vietnamese forces imprisoned captives for torture and interrogation.  Over 3 million civilians and troops of all sides died in the American or Vietnam War.  The Museum is understandably vocally anti-American in its displays and commentary.  But I felt it did itself poor service by not providing any information about the deaths and suffering caused by the Vietnamese themselves against each other.  The US wasn't the only "baddie".

We then headed off to see Notre Dame Cathedral.  But the Holy Thursday Chrism Mass was just coming out - and we couldn't get in.  Never seen so many nuns in tradional garb in one place (except maybe St Peter's Square in Rome).  So we went across the road and visited the Post Office.  Yes, true!     It is a lovely building of French design, with counters that send flowers, pack and post your goods, handle insurance as well as the usual stamps etc.  By now it was lunchtime, and John took us to a traditional Vietnamese soup kitchen.  Each person gets a large bowl of basic chicken or beed broth and a plate of greens and noodles and sauces to add at own discretion and to own taste.  Yummy, although I went a bit heavy on the chili.  A brisk walk then to a Highlands Coffee Shop for cake and coffee:  high quality though moderately priced.  $5 for iced coffee and Black Forest cake.

Saigon's tallest building is the Bitexco Tower at 260m, and 49 floors.  We paid our 120,000 dong for a ride to the top and half an hour in the observation deck.  Great view of the city, and especially the Mekong River.  A pity it was pretty hazy, so the distant view was limited.

The bus then deposited us back at hotel at 2.30pm for free time.  I had a  nap, then walked aorund to see the Cathedral.  It was built last century by the French -- and every brick and fitting was imported from Marseille in France!  It is dedicated to Mary Queen of Peace and St Francis Xavier.  A cardinal has his seat there.  In front in the park is a large statue of Mary that some years ago was rumoured to be shedding tears -- denied but still brought thousands of pilgrims.  Inside is rather plain; and the walls of all the side chapels are covered in votive plaques rather like number plates.  Pretty untidy.

Tonight we headed out to another traditional restaurant. The arrangement for all our meals is that the food is set menu and paid for by the otur company;  we pay for our own drinks and tips.  Sorting out the bill and foreign money takes for ever!  The food was interesting in how it was served:  soup in a hollowed coconut; meat pieces in a pineapple shaped to look like a chicken, and so forth.

Finally to the Rex Hotel - a 5 star feature of Saigon night life.  This was the hotel that the western journalists were based at during the Vietnam War, and much of the fall of Saigon was filmed from here.  5 star prices too .. 240,000 dong for a lemon soda.  Great spanish music from a 5 piece band and singer though.

Late night -- so photos will follow on the morrow.

And here they are.