A sweltering day, but I took to the streets to get a feel for Siem Reap.
Started the day with the largest buffet breakfast I have ever seen. A lady was waiting to scramble my eggs to order; waiters hovered ever ready to refill coffee cup. A good start to the day. No hot water in my shower but that mattered little.
Siem Reap is really a number of villages alaong both sides of the river that have joined up to form the city. But each has retained something of its historic character. Particularly noticeable is the French influence in some parts. (Used to be French Indochina once.) The name is an historic swipe at Thailand. Centuries ago this was Angkor, capital of Cambodia. It was overrun by Siam (Thai people); but eventually liberated and rename Siem Reap = "Thailand defeated". Today after decades of civil strife and US interference, it is a one party communist state, and the poorest in the region. Small crop farmers make up the majority of the populationin the nation.
Similar to my experience in China, the cities here are extremely smoggy: vehicles and factories with no pollution controls. I forgot they drive on the right here -- so have stepped out to cross the street several times looking the wrong way to be made jump back by irate scooter horns. Mind you, "drive on the right" seems to be just an idea rather than a reality: nothing to see cars and scooters and bikes in each other's lanes. Also there are no footpaths (except along the river banks). Spaces in front of shops are jam packed with cars and scooters parked at all angles. No street parking provided. So one must walk along the road, mixing it with the unpredictable traffic. Mind you, no one excpet a few tourists seem to walk.. everyone rides, even old ladies.
No need to walk of course. On every street corner, and in front of every eating place etc there are thousands of tuk tuks waiting to take you just about anywhere local for $1 or $2. And even cheaper, an equal number of scooter riders are trying to lure you onto their pillion.
I saw no western style shops on my walk. Most seemed to be modest little store fronts or market places. Banks everywhere - no shortage of ATMs. If the heat beats you and you need a cold drink, you have little option but to front up to one of the many streetside stalls that sell food and drink. No sign of a Maccas or KFC today! And hotels -- my guide tells me there are more than 100 in Siem reap competing for the tourist trade.
The guide met me at 12.30 and took me to the old market area for lunch .. a set menu affair obviously catering to the tour companies. But it was a lovely open courtyard place and the food was good.
This afternoon I wandered around a number of the back streets near hotel. A mish mash of stores, hotels, guest houses and apartments ... in an amazing mix of architectural styles or none. They are certainly very keen on massage here; and lots of hole-in-the-wall laundry places too charging $1 per 1kg wash and iron. US dollar seems to be the only currency in use -- no coins, so there is nothing you can buy for less than $1.
Tonight I met three more of the party: 2 from Perth and a lady from New Zealand. All seem to be seasoned travellers. Reamining 5 arrive later tonight - so we will be a mini-bus party of 9.
Early start tomorrow -- so early bed tonight!
Click here to see pics.
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