Troy–9 May

Troia is an active archaeological dig that is on the UNESCO protected sites list. It is 35 km from Canakkale on the Asian side of the Dardanelles.  So to get there our tour mini-bus first took a ferry ride across the waterway, then wounds its way through the old city and suburbs of Canakkale, and out into the countryside.  In its legendary days, Troy was a harbour city, made rich by the trade between the Mediterranean and the Black Sea.  Because of the strong Bosphorus currents many sailing ships could not make it up to the Black Sea,  so tin and other trading commodities were shipped down to Troy and sold there at a middle-man’s mark-up.  Trade hasn’t changed much

The story of Troy has been perpetuated in the works of Homer.  Several movies have been made on the theme of the love between Paris and Helen, and the Trojan Wars that ensued.  But the exact site of ancient Troy was lost in the mists of time.  In 1865, an English explorer started digging in a small hill on a property he bought some 3km from the Aegean Sea.  In partnership with a German entrepreneur the site was scientifically excavated and it was found that  some 9 cities, dating back from 2500BC had been built on top of each other, as each was in turn destroyed by earthquakes or war.  The city Homer knew and wrote about was the 7th city (1300BC).

The original town was just a cluster of houses inside a wall about the size of a soccer field.  Eventually this area was expanded and became the centre of each successive city, the place for temples, city walls etc., with the suburbs extending out way beyond the walls.

This was the first time I have actually been able to walk through an archaeological excavation and see the remains of the differing periods of time, the different building styles and materials, and remains of pottery and other everyday items.  Quite different to seeing them in museum cases.  The last city (Roman Ilium built in 4thC AD) was some 40 feet above the floor levels of the first city 3000 years before it!

An interesting trip.  By the way, the guide assured me that there never was a Trojan horse filled with enemy soldiers. He has a much more likely explanation of the Homeric myth … remind me to tell you about it some day!

There is a newish pub in Eceabat much favoured by Aussies and Kiwis.  I discovered that it has a beer garden attached at the back (full o antipodean memorabilia).  Dined there the previous evening; an enjoyable meal, though very much of the Turkish style.

After the Troy trip, it was a nearly 5 hour run back to Istanbul via mini-bus:  a bit bumpy, but got delivered to hotel door at the airport.  So worth the minor inconvenience.  This was by far the most luxurious hotel room I have had .. real 5 star stuff:  and all I managed to use it for was from 11pm to 6am … not happy!

Took pics of Troy:  not sure how much sense they make, but anyway they are here.