Canterbury–2 June

Today I became a pilgrim and made my way to Canterbury.  A comfortable one hour trip on the High Speed train to Margate.  Much quicker than the several days that Geoffrey Chaucer’s pilgrims took on foot, giving them plenty of time to tell their Tales.

Canterbury was a town in party mode today.  The High Street (a pedestrian only area) was teeming with people in festive mood – just hanging out as far as I could see, eating, drinking and enjoying themselves.  Obviously part of the Queen’s Jubilee celebrations.  Stalls everywhere selling flags and royal memorabilia of every kind. It was quite fun just to be there and walk through it all.


Christ Church Cathedral is one of  England’s oldest churches, dating from 597.  St Augustine and his monks were sent by the Pope to convert the Angles.  The Celtic Christian church was already well established, but he brought the Roman version and won royal favour.  And so Canterbury became the mother church of England, to Anglicans now what St Peter’s is to Catholics.  The present building dates from the mid 1000’s, and looks it too.  Lots of restoration going on.  Inside is interesting.  The nave leads to the quire which is reached by a set of steps …. and that opens to the High Altar and behind it the Trinity Chapel.  St Thomas Becket was murdered here in 1170, maybe with the King’s connivance.  The spot of the assassination is marked by a dramatic shrine featuring sword and dagger (see pics).  He was buried in the body of the Cathedral, but his shrine was destroyed on orders of Henry VIII and his bones lost.  A lone candle today burns where his shrine used to be.

As I said yesterday, the English are masters at cramming in memorials and tombs into their churches.  Canterbury is no exception:  but the names of many are recognisable as historically important.  Also I never knew that the English were involved in so many wars over the centuries until I saw all the memorials to fallen regiments and generals and so on today.  Even the Royal Cyclist Battalion in India has a memorial! 

Evensong was scheduled for 3.15 pm, so I stayed and attended.  A visiting choir from the USA (Episcopal Church) provided the singing.  My seat in the quire was directly opposite the Archbishop’s stall (not 5 meters away), so I sat through the service eyeballing Rowan Williams (but not game to sneak a photo!). I did manage a fuzzy one afterwards.  All very English, and there was the installation of 2 female theologians as Six Preachers during the service – some sort of honorary role that goes back in history.  You have probably seen in Anglican services on TV how important figures like the Archbishop and Dean are always preceded by vergers carrying a silver rod – presumably to whack out of the way anyone who tries to interrupt the movement of the dignitary.  Well these Canterbury ones are real Secret Service types:  they have earpieces fitted that run from under their vestment, and I wondered if their rod mightn’t be a disguised rifle or stun gun!  Looks quite strange to see such hi-tech gear in such a medieval setting.

On the walk back to the train I sampled some of the local delicacies:  peanuts cooked in honey oil at street stalls;  and local ice cream that was super creamy. A pleasant end to a most enjoyable outing.

As usual there are some pics to remember it all by:  they are here.