Another sunny day, and I took to the hop on-hop off bus as the most practical way to get to see what I wanted. Copenhagen is stretched over several islands; the subway is limited; and the “must see” places are scattered from one end to the other. I did the grand tour to get a sense of the city; then hopped off at the winter royal palace to see the changing of he guard. The Queen was not in residence , so no band music. Very nicely drilled performance, with the spectators allowed to crowd around (unlike in London where everyone is kept behind barriers).
The Little Mermaid is still sitting on her rock, looking out to see in search of her lover prince. She draws very large crowds to photograph her. The ice-cream vendors do a great trade nearby! Behind the Amalienborg Palace is the Frederick Church – a marble monument that has the 3rd largest dome in Europe after St Peter’s in Rome and St Paul’s in London. They say that every household in Copenhagen contributed a copper pot to allow the dome to be sheathed when it was built – so it is regarded as the people’s church. Further behind that is another palace, the Rosenberg Slot which is set in beautiful gardens where many families were picnicking. It is now an art gallery and museum, and houses the crown jewels.
There is an interesting hippy commune on the island of Christiania that has declared itself independent. Lots of artwork, graffiti, handcrafts etc. there, and it does well from the tourists.
The Tivoli Gardens are quite an experience. A unique mix of botanical gardens, fountains, music stages, boutique shops, eating establishments, amusement park, symphony hall all rolled in together. I took a long
I then walked towards home along the main shopping street of the city. The Stroget is a pedestrian mall 1.5 km in length, lined with stores of every kind (most closed today). Nearby the the Vor Frue Kirk or State Church Cathedral. It was first built as St Mary’s in the 12th century. At the time of the Reformation, the Catholic tried to hang on to it, but the King ruled that Catholics and Protestants had to share it. This early attempt at ecumenism didn’t work: the Protestants raided the church, ripped out all the statuary and other popish items, and have been there ever since. It was renamed The Church of Our Lady, as St Mary was too popish. Has been completely rebuilt after fires, and now has some wonderful statues of the apostles lining the nave.
Took my only subway ride here – just one stop – to get to the Sakraments Kirk for 6pm English Mass. Scary subway: the trains are all driverless! A totally automated system that runs a fast train by every 5-6 minutes. 10.30pm now and fireworks sounding all over the place. It is Pentecost, and a public holiday tomorrow in this very religious Lutheran city. Found a nice Laundromat where I did a wash and dry while I read some of my kindle. So all fresh and ready to head to Bruges tomorrow.
Today’s selection of photos is here.
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