Vatican City–26 April

The only part of me not aching tonight seems to be my hands.  Hours of standing and walking on hard marble really do take toll of one’s feet,back and neck.  I’d give anything for a good Radox soak just now:  will have to settle on a hot shower.

So I set aside today for re-acquainting myself with the Vatican.  A lot has changed since last I was here.  The queue to get through security screening stretched 2/3 way around the piazza.  Once up to the scanners, usual procedure of putting bag through machine and self through scan-gate.  Hold up was people arguing with Vatican police (not Swiss Guard here) about being refused admission because wearing shorts or sleeveless dresses.  Guess who always wins?


I signed up for an English language tour as a lazy way of catching the history rather than trying to read as I went.  Very upmarket electronic now.  Everyone wears a radio receiver and ear piece tuned to their guide:  she has a lapel microphone and so can give commentary without disturbing the quiet of the basilica.  That took 90 minutes and provided a lot of info I was unaware of; then I did a bit more wandering and then a walk through the grottos below. Some pretty nasty types buried there (like Boniface VIII); but they try to put a good face on all of them with the plaques that are near each tomb.  Crowds were huge: I’d hate to be here in the summer.  So I decided to sign up for the afternoon guided tour of the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel.  Apart from the excellent commentary, this got immediate access to the various places without having to queue – no small benefit given the thousands of visitors.  This tour took 2 1/2 hours and was a back-breaker.  Up and down stairs; through long marble corridors, and for ever craning to look at ceiling frescoes.  I have to say I am also suffering from information overload.  The guide was a PhD candidate in history, and she really knew her stuff.  I think to appreciate all of this, one would be better to visit one room on one day each week for the next 20 years!

Since I was last here the Sistine Chapel has been cleaned.  The vibrancy of the colours now has to be seen to be believed.  (They have left a couple of small patches uncleaned just to let you see how badly discoloured the frescoes had become over the centuries.)  Of course, no photography allowed as Fuji Film paid millions to fund the cleaning in exchange for copyright for all DVD, postcards etc.

I can see now that I have made a major planning mistake in not allowing much more time for Rome.  I thought “been there, done that”,  but in fact there is so much I have really only ever walked past and never truly explored or appreciated.  Ah well!

Location seem to really matter here in setting prices.  I had a snack of fish and chips and coke zero for lunch at a bar near the Porta Angelica cost 18€.  Tonight, too tired to be bothered, I returned to the Termini station and ate at Gusto, a self-serve cafeteria (think Jo Jo’s);  pollo arrosto con PA 5.70;  salad medio 3.00; dessert a cucchiato 3.10; chardonnay falesco 250ml  3.50;  total only 15.30€ for a 3 course meal!

It was 24C today – and I got a little burned in the face- forgot my hat.  Tomorrow promises to be 27C  so will be my first day out in shorts.  (Not planning to go anywhere that has clothing police.)  As  a matter of fact, tomorrow will have to be a rather quiet day unless I miraculously recover overnight.  There is a free display at the Capitoline Hill museum I think I’ll take in.  Museums usually have some seats!

Have enjoyed watching groups of stereotypical Mediterranean males around the place.  Lots of chest hair, kilograms of gold in chains, bracelets and chunky rings, as they strike a pose in their too-tight jeans and talk each other down!  All so serious about it too!

Memo to self:  I really do need better fitting trousers at waist:  having to remove belt at scanners doesn’t leave me with enough hands to hold up my pants and manage everything else!

Pics tonight are limited as could only snap in the basilica …. have selected a few from all I took (after a while one statue of a pope looks like very other one, and the same for frescoes).  See them here.