The city is crowded between the Mediterranean Sea and the Collserola range, on a narrow plain about 5km wide and 20km long. Total population is much bigger than Brisbane, bur living is much more dense. The old city dates from Roman times, and, having been designed long before Mr Ford came on the scene, most of the streets are narrow and accessible only to pedestrians and cyclists. So it is a great place to wander around, exploring the winding alleys and hidden squares. The newer city, nearer the hills, is of modern style.
Barcelona is the capital of Catalonia; Catalan is spoken rather than Spanish. Indeed I haven’t seen a Spanish flag yet! The city thrives on tourism, and language is no problem. Getting around is easy too. The Bus Turistic circles the city on 2 routes, passing 47 of the main attractions with commentary in 10 languages. You can hop on-hop off for 2 days for €31. I spent an hour or so riding the Red route to get a feel for the place, then started my exploring.
Montjuic (Jew Hill) is a good place from which to view the city. Covered with lovely parks and gardens, it is dominated by the castle or fortress. Until the end of the Franco regime it housed political prisoners and was a place of execution and torture. Now a great tourist site, reached by cable car.
The city prides itself on its modernity, much shaped by Antoni Gaudi (1852-1926) and his disciples. The long history of the city tends to be preserved in its many churches. The gothi
c Cathedral (13th – 15th centuries) is built on site of earlier churches dedicated to St Eulalia (13 year old virgin martyr) whose remains are enshrined in a chapel under the high altar. One can get a crick neck looking up at the soaring ceilings and dozens of shrines that are slotted between the buttresses. Out in the cloister there wander 13 geese, sacred to the memory of the young saint who is the city’s patron. In the eveneing I attended Mass at the Basilica of Our Lady of Mercy and the Archangel Michael – just down the lane from my apartment. Picasso lived next door, but I doubt if he and his mistress worshipped there. (None of his art to be seen there, for sure!) This parish church is much larger than St Stephen’s Cathedral in Brisbane and dates from 13th century. So many saints statues and shrines fill it; and the compulsory saint’s tomb too (this one of a local woman who founded an order of nuns dedicated to ransoming slaves). There were 25 of us at Mass, said in Catalan. How they manage to keep all these churches open is a cause for wonder. Well, I guess the €6 entrance ticket to the Cathedral helps!At then end of the day one’s mind is so overwhelmed with historical facts and tourist information that a quiet meal in a Tapas bar is a necessary respite. Great food everywhere. The weather was good until the end … pouring with rain as I made a dash from the Port Vell back to the apartment. My feet will need a good rest before I can face up to another day on the go!
A selection of my pics are here.
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