Friday, October 14, 2011

Margaret River

Monday:  Today I fell in love – with Busselton.  After an unplanned sleep-in, I headed south-west from Bunbury to this delightful seaside town at the bottom of Geographe Bay.  The area abounds in French names because of explorations around 1800 by French expeditions.  One ship came to grief here and is commemorated in local placenames.  The British colonists promptly changed most of the others to honour their own.  Busselton boasts the longest wooden-piered jetty in the southern hemisphere, almost 2km long.  The port was closed in 1972, so it is now just a tourist attraction.  The town has a beautiful foreshore and beach; its shopping area is attractively set out.  It has the oldest working Anglican church in WA, which is also the oldest stone church in Australia.  And the butter factory has been converted into the most comprehensive local museum I have seen anywhere.  The volunteers have excelled in attaching name lists to all of the hundreds of photos.  I spent a very enjoyable hour there.
On then to Dunsborough, where I fell in love again.  This time with the town’s bakery: a large shop filled with the smells of fresh baked bread, pies, cakes, tarts and slices.  Calorie heaven!  A beef and mushroom pie and vanilla slice made a very tasty lunch.
MargRiver48Just a short drive then to Cape Naturaliste.  This is the 2nd most westerly point on the WA coast (after Shark Bay in the north).  The lighthouse is automated now, but used to be hand cranked for many years before electricity reached there.  The beam reaches 25km to sea, flashing white every 7.5 seconds, and red every 2.5 seconds.  There are a dozen charted shipwrecks within sight of the light, mostly from the days of sail.  Great view from the terrace at lamp level.  I was treated to a pod of whales frolicking just below as they make their way south with their calves.
What had been planned as a winery day ended up with my visiting only two vineyards.  On the caves road south toward Margaret River, I stopped in at Cullens Winery – one of the pioneers of the area, and catering exclusively to the export market.  Nearby is the original vineyard of the Margaret River region, Vasse Felix.  Now owned by the Holmes a Courte family, it planted in the 1960’s and produced its first vintage in 1971.  So the area is quite young as a wine producing district.  It also appeared to me that most of the vineyards are quite small compared to those I saw in the Barossa Valley.  Anyway, see one Cellar Door and you’ve just about seen the lot – I am finding myself much more attracted to the historic places and buildings that have such interesting stories to tell.
Late afternoon brought me to Prevelly just near the mouth of the Margaret River.  The resort here is everything could want for a much more lengthy stay than I am having. Spacious apartment with full cooking and washing facilities, as well as dvd and stereo players to complement the TV.  I drove inland to Margaret River township for dinner at the Settlers Tavern – local lamb chops and veg  with a freshly made brownie for dessert!  Now for a good night’s sleep, as tomorrow will involve a lot of driving.
The pic – wildflowers are in bloom wherever you go:  so colourful.
And there are more pics here

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

We loved Busselton too and the Lighthouse which is quite different from the Cape Luen lighthouse. Shame you didn't have more time in Margaret River. It is an interesting village with a very good Information centre and you are quite right - the wineries all blend into one after a while. Judyx

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